Angels for Dirty Faces

“I believe in trail magic and trail angels. Just when I thought I was going to hide out in Vasquez Rocks for the night . . . I was saved.”

--Jeff Jacobs

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Setting a tall glass of iced lemonade on the patio table, John Krall takes a look at his surroundings and smiles. “This is great,” he said. “I really needed this.”

One month into a planned four-month solo trek from the Mexican border to Canada, and one day after his first shower and cold beverage in more than a week, Krall looks as though he is truly in heaven.

And why not. Hosting his brief respite from the rigors of life on the Pacific Crest Trail are Donna and Jeff Saufley. The Agua Dulce couple, along with their 13-year-old son, Thomas, are among the PCT’s newest and most gracious “trail angels.”

Scattered indiscriminately from the Mojave Desert to the Cascade Mountains, trail angels offer hikers a lifeline between the wilderness and the world they left behind. For those hardy enough to take on the 2,650-mile trail, angels are unsung heroes who often mean the difference between making it through and bailing out.

From water, shelter and tips about local terrain to rides to the hospital for medical treatment, the Saufleys say there is little they won’t do for hikers in need, as long as visitors leave a message in the family’s guest book. Perhaps most importantly, though, is the Saufleys’ willingness to lend a friendly ear and offer weary trekkers encouragement to keep on going.

During Krall’s 24-hour stay in Agua Dulce, the 32-year-old from Mukilteo, Wash., showered, washed his clothes, ate a pizza, enjoyed some good conversation and, most importantly he said, recharged his batteries for the long walk ahead.

“The description of the next section in the guidebook sounds pretty awful: hot, waterless and ugly,” said Krall, who left his job with Boeing to realize a childhood fantasy of spending months alone in the wilderness. “Jeff and Donna are great,” he said. “They’ve given me the break I needed to face that.”

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“Relaxing on a soft couch. Rocking out to Jimi Hendrix after a warm shower. It doesn’t get any better than this.”

--Mike Rothery

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“Welcome to hiker haven,” said Donna Saufley, greeting a visitor. For two years, the 1 1/3-acre family property has doubled as a way station for more than 125 trekkers. “Some of the hikers have dubbed it the Agua Dulce Hilton.”

With two of the family’s five dogs at her heels, Saufley proudly shows off the air-conditioned two-bedroom trailer that from May through July is reserved for hikers.

Among its amenities, the 30-year-old trailer includes fresh towels stacked neatly in the bathroom, a telephone, television, refrigerator and stereo.

“One of the things they usually miss is music,” Saufley explained.

Two “hiker boxes” containing a trove of materials left by previous visitors trying to shed weight in their packs are up for grabs. The contents of the boxes range from tin plates and granola to powdered Kool-Aid and energy bars.

The trailer has no working kitchen, but the Saufleys, who own an electrical contracting business, often invite guests to dine with them or drive them into Santa Clarita to an all-you-can-eat buffet.

“It’s amazing,” Jeff said. “These guys come off the trail and they have voracious appetites.”

Most of the those who make their way to the Saufleys have been tipped off by other hikers or hear about the local trail angels at a nearby real estate office that serves as a pickup spot for supplies.

Stays can range from an afternoon nap to five days or more in the case of those slowed by injuries or inclement weather. Most hikers stay one or two nights. However long the stay, the Saufleys never charge for their hospitality.

“All we ask is that they write in our book,” Donna says, pointing to a small journal filled with thank-you notes, poems and drawings. “It’s such an incredible journey that they’re on. To get some kindness, some support, you can see it in their eyes how much they appreciate it. That’s enough for us.”

*

“Dear Abby, Dear Abby, I’ve got poison oak.

I can’t find the trail and my toes are all broke.

Each mornin’ I wake to a terrible smell,

If I weren’t agnostic, I’d think this was hell.”

--Andrea Gabriel

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“When you come out of the wilderness with only a pack on your back and you smell like a week on the trail and for all intents and purposes you look like a vagrant, it’s so important to have someone know who you are and what you’re doing,” said Bob Ballou, the executive director of the Pacific Crest Trail Assn.

The 2,600-member nonprofit group helped get the PCT built and now exists to protect it from encroachment and provide the public with up-to-date information about trail conditions.

Work on the PCT, one of eight national scenic trails, began in 1968 and was completed in 1993.

Throughout its journey, the PCT holds to the crest of the mountains. Locally, it passes over the San Jacinto, San Bernardino and San Gabriel ranges before traveling the entire length of the Sierra Nevada. From beginning to end, the trail winds through seven national parks, 24 national forests, 33 federal wilderness areas and six state parks. It covers some of the most rugged and breathtaking terrain in California, Oregon and Washington.

According to Ballou, about 150 men, women and children attempt to hike the entire PCT each year. Only a dozen or so usually make it all the way. This year’s El Nino condition has led to an unusually heavy snowpack in the Sierra, making a complete traverse of the trail all but impossible.

Ballou said that without the assistance of trail angels, even fewer hikers would complete the PCT.

“Having that kind of support along the way can help you get through the mental challenges, but it’s also so important from a physical standpoint,” he said. “When you’ve been out on the trail for 500 or 700 miles, you can really use a little help.”

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“My body, mind, soul and stinky gear have all been rejuvenated here. It’s beautiful people like you who restore my faith. Yes! Goodness prevails on and off the trail.”

--Susie from Florida

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The Saufleys say they truly enjoy the heartfelt thanks they receive for helping out--from the warm embraces of the hikers to the notes of gratitude sent by some of their mothers. Still, they admit that part of the reason they do it is to experience--if only vicariously--the thrills of trail life themselves.

As lovers of the outdoors they dream of a time when they can leave their business and home behind for six months on the trail.

“I am inspired by these people,” Donna said. “It’s such an incredible challenge they undertake--physically, mentally and spiritually.”

“I kind of envy what these guys are doing,” John added. “The mystery of it and the stories. I truly believe that Donna and I are going to hike the trail one day. One day.”