Now Washington Knows What It’s Been Missing

Delivered From L.A. Envy: Washington Post restaurant critic Phyllis C. Richman, in her May 10 review of Citronelle in Washington, writes: “No more Los Angeles envy. Now we have our very own superstar California chef, Michel Richard, who’s left Tinseltown to move to Washington. . . . No longer is Citronelle an absentee-chef chain restaurant. Instead, it’s the showcase of one of the best French chefs cooking in this country.”

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Dinner for 400 Revisited: In 1983, restaurateur Michael McCarty and Chalone Vineyard winemaker Richard Graff traveled around the country for the American Institute of Wine and Food and found 14 great chefs who specialized in regional cooking. Then they organized a buffet-style dinner to showcase the chefs’ talents, pairing each food station with a winery station.

Today, all those chefs have gone on to be stars, and McCarty is staging a repeat to honor the memory of Graff, who died in January; proceeds go to the Richard Graff Scholarship Fund for Food and Wine. All but one of the original 14 chefs will return to Michael’s May 31 to cook one or two of their current regional specialties. Again, each chef’s station will be paired with a winery.

The chefs are McCarty; Larry Forgione from An American Place, New York; Mark Miller from the Loongbar, San Francisco; Bradley Ogden from the Lark Creek Inn, Larkspur, Calif.; Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton from Campanile and La Brea Bakery, L.A.; Paul Prudhomme from New Orleans; Wolfgang Puck from Spago, West Hollywood and Beverly Hills; Jimmy Schmidt from the Rattlesnake Club, Detroit; Jeremiah Tower from Stars, San Francisco; Alice Waters from Chez Panisse, Berkeley; and Jonathan Waxman, formerly of Jams, New York (and one of Michael’s opening chefs). Julia Child will be stopping by on her way back from Europe. The meal begins at 1 p.m. and will continue until 5 p.m. Tickets are $175 apiece and may be purchased in advance by calling (310) 458-3000. Tickets may also be purchased at the door the day of the event. Michael’s, 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica; (310) 451-0843.

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New House on the Beach: Santa Monica Canyon will soon see the revival of 100 W. Channel Road, most famous as the location of Les Anges back in the ‘80s. Owner Liza Utter (not Hutter, as, we blush to say, we spelled it here some weeks ago) has spent nine months fixing up the pigeon-filled, water- and earthquake-damaged space. Now the interior is stylish a la Ralph Lauren, the dining room and bar area separated by a low wall and shutters; a small patio sits out back. Josie LeBalch of Saddle Peak Lodge, who originally signed on as consulting chef, has decided to stay on for the time being. Some of her dishes include steamed clams and mussels in a shallot and white wine broth, maple-roasted game hen, chicken pot pie and grilled short ribs with barbecue beans and French fries. Desserts are strawberry short cake, ice cream sundae and lots of home-baked pies. The Beach House should be opening in the first week of June.

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Fabio’s Place: Chef Fabio Flagiello of Chianti Ristorante on Melrose has just opened his own place in Hermosa Beach. Called Fabio Trattoria, it offers traditional yet light Italian cuisine; that would be lots of seafood but ixnay on the cream and butter. For instance, there’s a seafood linguine with shrimp, lobster tail, Manila clams, crab and calamari on the menu. If you don’t feel like seafood, you can get a sauteed pork chop with braised onion soup. Fabio Trattoria is currently open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday, with plans to open for weekend lunch around June 1.

* Fabio Trattoria, 2700 Manhattan Ave., Hermosa Beach; (310) 318-1556.

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Drago’s Baby: Celestino Drago’s recently opened L’Arancino is meant to emulate an Italian living room with mirrors on the walls, chair railings, a high ceiling and clerestory windows. The cuisine is Sicilian--old Sicilian; chef Greg D’Alessandro is cooking dishes based on Drago’s research in old Sicilian cookbooks. The on-site bakery is cranking out focaccia and ciabatta breads, and desserts such as cassata, a ricotta cake with candied fruits and a marzipan crust. L’Arancino is open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner nightly.

* L’Arancino Cucina Siciliana, 8908 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 858-5777.

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Picnic With Some French Guys: Club Culinaire Francais is hosting its 16th annual picnic May 31 at Big Rock Ranch in Topanga Canyon. A four-piece band will be playing French folk songs while guests feast under oak trees on a picnic prepared by Club Culinaire members.

Gael Cruchet from the Ritz-Carlton in Marina del Rey is preparing poached salmon; Jean-Francois Meteigner from La Cachette is doing the duck leg confit with mesclun salad; Pascal Olhats from Pascal Restaurant has the lamb aux Epices covered; and Akira Hirose of Tower Restaurant and Camille Crochet of Moustache Cafe are making chocolate pots. Christian Rassinoux from the Ritz-Carlton in Laguna Niguel is the kitchen captain, overseeing the dishes for the spread.

The picnic begins at 11:30 a.m. with aperitifs of wines, mineral waters and soft drinks; lunch follows at 1 p.m. After lunch is a raffle, plus ice cream bars for the kids. Tickets cost $30 for adults, $15 for children age 7 to 12 and free for children 6 and under. Reservations must be made and paid for in advance through Club Culinaire Francais, (714) 376-5208. The picnic takes place at 1717 Old Topanga Canyon Road, Topanga Canyon. Lifeguards will be on duty all day and parking is free.