Tips

Always use the size of pan specified; it makes a tremendous difference.

* Grease pans well and spread the dough evenly in the pan. It’s easier if you use an offset spatula--one with a crooked blade--that has been dipped in water.

* Avoid overbaking; it makes squares tough. Underbaking makes doughy or gummy squares. Observe baking times given in recipes and check about 5 to 10 minutes beforehand to see if they are set or almost done. Place baking pans on a baking sheet to protect bar bottoms from overbaking.

* Boyajian brand orange oil, which I prefer, is available from The Baker’s Catalogue, (800) 827-6836.

* Thoroughly cool squares before cutting to avoid crumbling or ragged edges. The best trick is to freeze or semi-freeze squares before cutting them. This way you get perfectly neat portions.

* Because most of these recipes freeze well, it pays to make several batches at a time. Wrap individual squares in wax paper, then seal them in freezer bags. This way, you can retrieve individual servings from the freezer as you need them.

* The beauty of squares is that you can cut them into any dimensions you want. One vintage homemaker’s manual suggests that the “lady of the house” cut these treats “into dainty servings for ladies at tea and large-sized portions for the men to tote to work in the fields.” Contemporary bakers can liberally stray from this well-intended but outdated advice.