Only the View Is Seaward

When I called for brunch reservations at the Claes Seafood restaurant in the Hotel Laguna, I was thinking bivalves and crustaceans. But it wasn’t to be.

Despite the name and stunning location overlooking the Pacific, we found very few of our friends from the sea: only three salmon dishes--with eggs, potatoes or polenta.

I asked the food manager why there was so little seafood and he blamed it on the Information Age. He analyzes customers’ preferences every year by computer. Do diners want eggs, seafood, meat or vegetables? The computer spits out the information and a new menu is born.

“The restaurant is constantly evolving,” said Richard Heller, director of food and beverages. “Our philosophy is to set higher standards with every meal. We want to find out what people like and take them to culinary places they’ve never been before.”

The usual egg dishes and meat entrees are well-represented. But what make them special are good sauces and interesting accompaniments: An herb coulis here, a fig compote there; a dill cream glaze that does wonders for the smoked salmon omelet; the fresh raspberries alongside a dessert.

Brunch comes with one main dish along with the buffet, which consists of French toast, pasta salads, fruit, California rolls, Belgian waffles and a small assortment of pastry and croissants. For an extra dollar you get either champagne or mimosas.

The main dishes might have been more impressive had they come to the table hot. The best choices are smoked salmon eggs Benedict served on a potato pancake with a lemony Hollandaise; a moist roasted chicken breast stuffed with an herb, spinach and ricotta cheese mixture on yellow pepper coulis; and a crisp and flavorful vegetarian quesadilla.

At some places, vegetable side dishes are an afterthought, serving as little more than a garnish. But vegetable lovers consider this an important part of the plate. Here the tender strips of yellow squash, zucchini and carrots hold their own against the eggs and poultry. Vegetables also get respectful treatment in the quesadilla--crispy flour tortillas filled with mushrooms, marinated artichokes, onions, tomatoes, olives and cheese.

Other thoughtful surprises put this brunch ahead of the pack. The yellow pepper coulis on the chicken dish is one. The delicious potato pancake on the egg Benedict is another. On the buffet table, perfect tomatoes are marinated in a tart basil and onion vinaigrette. Croissants are big and flaky, and the pasta salad has just the right ratio of filling to noodles.

Disappointing are the skimpy and bland California rolls, the less than ripe fruits of the season, which on our visit were tough strawberries and melon. I can do without the tepid Belgian waffles and French toast on the buffet as well.

The desserts and specialty coffees are worth saving room for, however. The vanilla creme brulee is a rich custard topped with a blanket of brittle caramel. The ripe raspberries along the side could be dessert all by themselves. (Hey, chef, throw a few of these on the buffet table and perk up a tired fruit salad).

The chilled Valencia orange souffle is an unexpected treat: a jolt of citrus accompanied by a terrific banana and fig compote. Wash it all down with cappuccino and Tia Maria and you have yourself a happy finale.

* Claes Seafood Etc., 425 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach (949) 376-9283. Sunday brunch served from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. $15 for brunch with buffet; $8 for buffet only (for children 12 and younger); $16 for brunch with buffet and house champagne (J. Roget) or Mimosa.