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Toward More Musical Kitchenware

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WASHINGTON POST

ALESSI “Richard Sapper”

German architect Richard Sapper’s stainless-steel, 2-quart kettle has a brass, trigger-action, two-tone, pitch-pipe whistle. “Sounds like a bad harmonica,” said Leonard Slatkin. There is no lid. $189. To order or for store locations, call (212) 431-1310.

ALESSI “Pito”

Architect Frank Gehry calls his stainless-steel, 1.9-quart vessel, with mahogany handle and pullout whistle, “Pito.” Slatkin said: “Looks good, sounds awful.” There is no lid. It was awkward to handle when filled with water. $299. Call (212) 431-1310.

ALL-CLAD

A heavy, stainless-steel, 2.5-quart kettle in the style of England, circa World War II. The small pullout whistle was difficult to remove and replace. The sound was raspy and muffled. $120. Available at Williams-Sonoma stores.

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CHANTAL “Saturn”

This cute, lightweight, stainless-steel, 1.5-quart teakettle, designed to recall the rings of Saturn, let go with a loud, pulsating A note. “That will call you from upstairs,” said one pianist. But with no lid it was hard to fill. The handle and pullout whistle were awkward to use. $39.99. Available at Williams-Sonoma and Macy’s stores.

CHANTAL “Classic”

We choose chili red. But this handsome, carbon steel and porcelain enamel, 2.5-quart kettle comes in five colors as well as stainless steel. The musicians loved the two-tone “windy and reedy, C and G notes.” $110. Available at Williams-Sonoma and Macy’s stores.

COPCO “Summit”

From the Ultimo line comes “Summit”--a ladylike, stainless-steel, 2.5-quart kettle with 24-karat gold-plated detailing. We liked the two-tone whistle that was neither too loud nor too annoying. We didn’t care for the pullout whistle cap, which was difficult to replace. $59.99. For store locations, call (800) 563-6000.

COPCO “Nuance”

Very modern and masculine “Nuance,” also from the Ultimo line, is porcelain enamel over steel with a “mirror” finish and holds 2.5 quarts. The musicians likened the whistle sound to that of a trombone. Oddly, the lever-action spout cover must be flipped down to open and up to close. $29.99. For store locations, call (800) 563-6000.

CUISINART “Everyday”

A good-looking, stainless-steel, 2.5-quart kettle with a few drawbacks. The pullout whistle cap emits a low, shrill tone. The lid falls off when the kettle is tipped to pour. $92. For store locations, call (800) 726-0190.

LE CREUSET

Here’s one that would look great in a country kitchen. It’s enameled steel, to match Le Creuset cookware, and holds 1.8 quarts. The whistle is pleasant. The lid and movable handle make this teakettle easy to fill and clean. Seven colors are available. $65. Available at Williams-Sonoma stores.

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METROKANE “Angel”

Those who covet things adorned with angels might find this stainless-steel, 3-quart kettle with a gold-toned, flip-up spout amusing. When it worked, the whistle was high-pitched. Filled with water it was clunky, the spout awkward to open and close. $50. Available at Koontz Hardware, 8914 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood. (310) 652-0123.

OXO GOOD GRIPS “Uplift”

A sturdy, stainless-steel, 2-quart kettle with a soft, nonslip handle. Our panel of musicians classified the foghorn-like whistle as a “baroque C.” P.D.Q. Bach impresario Peter Schickele called the Uplift’s automatic spout, which opens when tipped forward, “very cool.” We agree. Some users might find the “Uplift” too heavy. $49.99. Available at department and specialty housewares stores.

REVERE “Classic”

The familiar stainless-steel, with copper bottom, Revere is lightweight and holds 2.5 quarts. On the plus side, the plastic handle has a comfortable feel. But there is no lid and the trigger-action spout feels flimsy. The whistle is shrill. $19.99. Available at Wal-Mart and Kmart stores. Or call (888) 246-2737 for the location of a Corning Revere Factory store.

SIMPLEX “English Copper”

Handmade in England of copper with brass trim and a wooden handle, the appealing Simplex 2-quart kettle will bring a very traditional look to any castle or cottage. The restrained whistle, which is difficult to hear, is in the lid. About $110. Available at Williams-Sonoma stores.

SWISSMAR “Europro”

From this sleek, streamlined, stainless-steel dome, which holds 2.5 quarts, came the loudest, most high-pitched whistle of all kettles tested. “Take it off! Please, take it away!” the musicians screamed. But it does what a whistle is intended to do; it calls you back to the kitchen with its intense police whistle if you’ve forgotten to turn off the flame. $69.99. For retail sources, call Swissmar at (800) 387-5707.

TARGET “Michael Graves Design”

Here’s an amusing concept from architect Michael Graves--a stainless-steel, 2.5-quart kettle with a spout that has a spinning whistle. The sound is faint and bell-like. It’s a conversation piece. But when filled with water, cute turns to clunky. $39.99. Available by September at Target stores.

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VIA “English Orchard”

The search ends here for the perfect kettle for a retro 1940s kitchen. Homey “English Orchard” is enameled steel, 2.1 quarts, with applied metal “apples” in relief. The flip-up whistle had a wimpy, whispering tone. $24.99. Available at Lechters housewares stores.

VIA “Juneau”

Of all kettles tested, the 2.4-quart “Juneau,” made of enameled steel, received highest marks for ease of operation and contemporary style. Push the button next to the comfortable handle--the whistle cap effortlessly flips up. The wide lid has a snug fit. The harmonic “train” whistle--”that’s a flat C and flat D,” said Slatkin--is just loud enough. Five colors are available. $24.99 At Lechters housewares stores.

WMF “Dream”

Belgian-made “Dream” is a functional, stainless-steel, 2.1-quart kettle with a good, strong “train” whistle. One gripe: the handle had an uncomfortable feel. $79.99. Available at Bloomingdale’s stores.

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