Extra-Special Extra-Virgins

Most of these are small production oils, so it is hard to predict which stores will have them at any given time. Some stores that usually have excellent assortments include Whole Foods and Bristol Farms markets and Surfas Restaurant Supply & Gourmet Food, 8825 National Blvd., Culver City. You can also find a good selection of high-quality oils by calling Zingerman’s Deli (877) 665 3213 or accessing its Web site at https://www.zingermans.com

Olio Verde. Nearly everyone’s favorite. Made in Castelvetrano, Sicily, at the estate of Gianfranco Becchina. The oil is made from a single variety, Nocellara. The olives are picked and pressed while still green. This deep green unfiltered oil with a sexy pour has a fragrant aroma of fruit. You can really taste the olives. There are grassy and peppery undertones.

Capezzana. Olive oil has been made on the contini Bonacossi family estate since 804. Their unfiltered oil is a blend of Frantoio, Moraiolo, Pendolino, Leccino and Santa Caterina. The result is a deep green oil with a rich, buttery character. A well-balanced oil with a peppery finish.

Laudemio. Laudemio is produced by a consortium of estates near Florence that have strict self-regulation. The consortium strives for a balanced oil that is similar in flavor year to year. It is a green-tasting, fruity oil that turns golden with age. The blend of Frantoio, Moraiolo and Leccino has a hint of artichoke and pepper.

Frantoio di Sommaia. The Martini Bernardi family has made oil for 200 years from unnamed “Appenine varieties” in Tuscany. With one of the most languorous pours of any oil, this unfiltered, deep green oil has a creamy texture. It’s sweet upon first tasting and has a grassy, peppery finish.

Ravida. Nicola Ravida makes this remarkable oil in Sicily. Rich in flavor with a deeply satisfying mouth feel , it tastes of green olives with a bit of grassiness. Winner of the Orciolo d’Oro, the best extra-virgin olive oil in Italy.

Roi. The Boeri family makes this delicate, elegant oil near Genoa in Liguria. Perfect for those who prefer a lighter oil that still retains the taste of the fruit.