Tomorrow’s Salmon

Farm-raised salmon is available nearly year-round. But don’t miss the Chinook (or king) salmon that is shipped to markets in spring. Spring Chinook has firm, hearty red meat, and needs no more elaborate treatment than grilling or broiling.

I like to serve steamed or grilled baby red potatoes with it. And as I prepare the fish, I’m thinking how good the leftovers will be as salmon hash.

For grilling, buy steaks that are 3/4- to 1-inch thick. Plan one steak per person and buy two extra to have leftovers for the hash.

Rub a little olive oil on both sides of the steaks and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Total cooking time is about 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Turn steaks at the halfway point. Use an instant-read thermometer to check the fish. I prefer the steak moist, so I pull it from the grill at 125 degrees.

To have leftover potatoes, buy 28 little potatoes, pierce them with a fork, toss with 3 tablespoons of olive oil and a bit of salt and pepper, and scatter them around the edge of the grill rack. Cover and cook 10 minutes, then turn them over, cover and cook 10 minutes longer, or until easily pierced with a knife.

Serve four potatoes per person and set aside the remaining 12. Add some asparagus to each plate, and you’ve got dinner ready--and the leftovers for a humbly delicious salmon hash.

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Morgan is author of “Cooking for the Week: Leisurely Weekend Cooking for Easy Weekday Meals,” (Chronicle Books, $18.95).

Salmon Hash

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 35 minutes

4 tablespoons butter

12 grill-roasted or steamed baby red boiling potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice

2 large stalks celery, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 1/2 to 3 cups flaked grilled salmon

1/2 cup minced parsley

* Melt butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add potatoes, onion and celery. Saute vegetables until they just begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes, then cover and cook 5 minutes longer. Uncover, raise heat to medium-high and saute, stirring frequently, until nicely browned, about 10 minutes.

* Stir in dill, thyme, 1/4 teaspoon salt or more to taste, pepper and salmon. Cook until salmon is heated through, about 3 minutes. Stir in parsley, taste and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately on warmed plates.

4 servings. Each serving: 331 calories; 266 sodium; 73 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 25 grams protein; 0.79 gram fiber.

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Plate and napkin from Saks Fifth Avenue home store, Pasadena.