Creamed Spinach

With cooler days and nights, we turn to warm, old-fashioned food--like creamed spinach.

* Tam O’Shanter: The version at this 78-year-old Scottish theme restaurant is chopped spinach, minced bacon, half and half, both green and white onions, garlic, a pinch of flour and seasoned salt. It comes with the prime rib, but you can also order it as a side. (Creamed spinach, $2.95.) Tam O’Shanter, 2980 Los Feliz Blvd., Atwater Village, (323) 664-0228.

* Musso & Frank Grill: Whatever you order at this Hollywood landmark, get a side of creamed spinach. It’s pureed spinach plus homemade chicken stock, cream sauce (flour, butter, nonfat dry milk), garlic and a dash of nutmeg. (Creamed spinach, $3.50.) Musso & Frank Grill, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 467-7788.

* Ruth’s Chris Steak House: This luscious, creamy version couldn’t be simpler: It’s just chopped spinach, cream and a tiny bit of flour. (Creamed spinach, $5.25.) Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 859-8744.

* The Palm: This popular steakhouse uses heavy cream, nutmeg and freshly grated Parmesan, which means it has more bite and is a tad gooeyer than most. (Creamed spinach, $6.50.) The Palm, 9001 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 550-8811.

* Daily Grill: Executive chef John Sola created the recipe used in all six Daily Grill restaurants. It includes kosher salt, heavy cream, lots of fried shallots for sweetness and a squeeze of lemon. (Creamed spinach, $4.28.) Daily Grill, Brentwood Gardens, 11677 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 442-0044; Burbank Hilton, 2500 Hollywood Way, Burbank, (818) 840-6464; Encino Place, 16101 Ventura Blvd., Encino, (818) 986-4111; Tom Bradley Terminal, Los Angeles International Airport, (310) 215-5180; Beverly Connection, 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 659-3100; Laurel Promenade, 12050 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 769-6336.

* Monty’s Steakhouse: At Monty’s, famous for simple food and large portions, lightly chopped spinach is steamed in chicken stock and sauteed with butter, extra-heavy cream and a “hint” of nutmeg, to which third-generation owner Michael Levine attributes its popularity. (Creamed spinach, $4.95.) Monty’s Steakhouse, 592 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, (626) 792-7776; 5371 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, (818) 716-9736.