Continental Drift

The work of nine African designers closed out a two-year traveling fashion extravaganza in Los Angeles Monday night that also highlighted the talent of L.A.’s Kevan Hall, formerly of Halston.

The looks presented in Absolut Africa ranged from elegant evening gowns to outlandish creations hyping the show’s sponsor, the Absolut Spirits Co. The hourlong runway presentation was too much of a promotion for Absolut, with the logo emblazoned on garments--front, back, even the crotch--that often seemed garish. But such is the creative price a fledgling designer from a far-flung land must pay in order to get noticed in Fashion Land, U.S.A.

Still, there was plenty of good design in the collections from Alphadi of Niger; Dou Couture of Mali; Pathe O. of Burkina Faso; Pepita D. of Benin; Katoucha of Guinea; Nawal El Assad and Mickael Kra of the Ivory Coast; and Colle Sow Ardo and Dasha of Senegal. An enthusiastic crowd of 300 enjoyed the show at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion.

Each designer drew on his or her homeland traditions--motifs and dress inspired by nomadic tribes. They also used fabrics dyed in techniques that employ mud, ochre-colored soil, sulfur and other natural pigments; and materials embroidered with raffia.

Along with cultural references, designers added personal contemporary touches to the outfits. Among the standouts were Pepita D.’s halter and skirt; Katoucha’s geometric print halter teamed with a raffia-fringed skirt; Alphadi’s black bikini and brass breastplate; and Dou Couture’s giraffe-print caftan and turban.

But Hall, a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, was the evening’s showstopper, with a dazzling cocktail and evening wear collection beautifully decorated with bugle beading, sequins and organza-cut triangles that looked like flower petals. In a nod to the show’s sponsor, Hall also sent out a floor-length ostrich-feathered evening outfit with the Absolut logo discreetly embroidered on the waistband. The gown, inspired by jazz singer Josephine Baker, closed the show as guests gave Hall--the only designer present--a standing ovation.

Originally presented in Niger’s Tenere desert in 1998, Absolut Africa made its American debut in New York City last year and has since toured in Miami, Philadelphia, Washington, D.C., Chicago, Cleveland and Atlanta before its final venue in L.A. At every stop, an African American designer was invited to participate.

In the words of guest Natasha Harris, a lawyer who loves clothes: “These designers may be from across the world, but, honey, we all speak the same language--fashion.”