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Eggs and a Side Order of History

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TIMES STAFF WRITER

Before taking a seat at P.J.’s Abbey in Orange, new visitors are encouraged to stroll around, look at what remains of the original flooring, admire the sky-high ceilings and enjoy the sunlight streaming through the magnificent stained-glass windows.

Such perks should be added to the menu at P.J.’s Abbey, a restaurant inside what once was a Baptist Church. Several churches have owned the 110-year-old Gothic-style building, and have left behind some interesting objects. The former pulpit is now the hostess’ podium and nearby are several old pews.

And it’s not your imagination, the floor is lopsided: It was built 8-inches higher on the east end, at the time allowing a better view for those at the back of the church.

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P.J.’s Abbey offers a simple brunch menu, in keeping with the restaurant’s clean, reflective style.

There’s Irish oatmeal--a heartier take on the breakfast favorite--served with apples and walnuts, hot cakes with fresh blueberries and cinnamon-vanilla French toast. Omelets include spinach and mushrooms, or a California version, including mild green chiles, tomatoes, bacon and cheddar cheese. There’s also eggs benedict.

The grilled sirloin steak and eggs ranked above the rest and was clearly the most popular entree.

The morning’s raves, however, were saved for dessert. Our party was not considering sweets until our server arrived with a tray laden with delectable offerings. Our table split a decadent dark chocolate cake with creamy frosting and the cheesecake, which was drizzled with chocolate sauce. Given another chance, we would have settled for one chocolate offering and the apple tart, featuring an entire apple baked inside flaky, golden-brown pastry.

We all remarked that there was just something, something, special about the desserts. The server confirmed our suspicions that all the desserts are made there.

The Abbey also serves a large array of coffee drinks, mochas, lattes, and the like, served up in huge cups that look like soup bowls. A coffee drink made with espresso might be the way to go for those who need a caffeine jolt. The coffee served table side was decidedly weak.

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P.J.’s is a family-run business, and servers seem eager to please. But a bit too often, they fall short.

For example, some dishes were served piping hot while the French toast arrived tepid. Dishes stayed on our table long after we finished eating and had ordered dessert. This all occurred during a relatively slow period before the Sunday morning rush.

It’s hard to complain too much, however, with these prices. The grilled sirloin steak and eggs at $9.95, for example, is the most expensive entree on the brunch menu.

Afterward, take a relaxing walk up to the traffic circle and poke around the antique stores that line the way.

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P.J.’s Abbey, 182 S. Orange St., Orange. Sunday brunch, 8 a.m.-3 p.m. A jazz quartet performs from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Entrees range from $4.75 to $9.95. Reservations are recommended: (714) 771-8556.

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