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Coffeehouse Treats

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Northern California-based James McNair is the author of 40 cookbooks, the latest of which is "Afternoon Delights" (Chronicle Books, 2001)

Every afternoon, caffeine connoisseurs across America trek to their favorite coffeehouses or bakery-cafes for a steamy or frosty concoction to revive their senses and carry them through the rest of the day. My partner, Andrew Moore, and I frequently join this throng to get our fix. And like many of our fellow patrons, we are often interested in a tantalizing treat to go along with a frothy caffe latte or spicy chai.

During our travels from coast to coast, we have made it our habit to seek out great emporiums of coffee and tea to sample their fare. One afternoon, while enjoying crisp biscotti dipped into cups of steaming espresso, it occurred to us that here was the perfect material for a cookbook. So, while sipping and nibbling in both the ubiquitous national chains and unique local establishments, we started to keep notes of popular baked offerings.

Tasting our way through the country may sound like a dream job, and at times it was. Sighs of delight accompanied our bites into the occasional perfect buttery shortbreads and gooey pecan bars. More often than not, however, we would encounter yet another bone-dry scone, soggy lemon bar, stale brownie, underbaked cookie or bland coffee cake. Of course, we knew that some of the problems came from their being sold beyond their optimum shelf life. But given the typically high prices, they should all have been of premium quality and served as fresh as possible.

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Armed with a list of our 25 favorite coffeehouse treats, we decided to make our own coffeehouse treats, and at a fraction of the cost of commercial versions. Mountains of flour, sugar and butter later, we affirmed our belief that few commercial products come close to the quality of baked goods fresh from the home oven.

Our collection of recipes for cookies, brownies, bars, scones, quick breads and coffee cakes makes large-size treats designed for adult appetites, but bakers who prefer smaller versions can follow size-reduction tips. While we urge eating most treats the day they are baked, quick breads, biscotti and shortbreads store well, making them ideal candidates for gifting or keeping on hand for impromptu coffee chats.

Although we prefer our own home-baked treats, a great coffeehouse or bakery-cafe is a neighborhood treasure, and we still love to while away an afternoon at one whenever we can. We also appreciate them as perfect casual gathering places to meet friends and colleagues. And we thank them for their sweet inspirations.

Coconut Macaroons

(Adapted from “Afternoon Delights,” by James McNair and Andrew Moore)

Makes 1 dozen large cookies

14 ounces sweetened shredded coconut, about 4 cups

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup egg whites (from about 8 large eggs)

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

Line a baking sheet with kitchen parchment and set aside. In a heavy saucepan, combine all of the ingredients and mix thoroughly. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan to prevent scorching, until the mixture is fairly dry and stiff, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Using a #20 (1/4-cup) ice-cream scoop with a release mechanism, scoop up level portions of the mixture and place them about 1 inch apart on the lined baking sheet. Transfer baking sheet to a 350-degree oven and bake until the macaroons are golden brown, about 20 minutes.

Remove the baking sheet to a wire rack to cool for about 5 minutes, then peel the macaroons from the parchment and place directly on the rack to cool completely. (Macaroons may be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.)

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Food stylist: Christine Masterson

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