Decadence with a crunch

Dear SOS: My mother used to make a dessert consisting of five or six layers of meringue (baked and dried for two days) and mocha or chocolate buttercream frosting.

The meringue absorbed the buttercream for a day and the result was a delicious, decadent, chewy and crunchy cake.

Would you have the recipe?

Barbery Byfield

Los Angeles

Dear Barbery: We think you may be looking for a dacquoise recipe. This one is “delicious, decadent, chewy and crunchy,” but it has three layers of meringue. It’s from “The Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook” by Julee Rosso, Sheila Lukins and Sarah L. Chase (Workman Publishing, 1985).

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Dacquoise

Total time: 2 hours, plus 3 hours chilling and 8 hours standing

Servings: 12

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Meringues

3/4 cup ground almonds

1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 cup powdered sugar

2/3 cup superfine sugar

6 egg whites, room temperature

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1. Heat the oven to 250 degrees. Line each of 3 baking sheets with parchment paper. Trace an 8-inch circle on the center of each. Set aside.

2. Using repeated pulses, process the almonds and cocoa in a food processor to mix thoroughly.

3. Mix the powdered sugar and superfine sugar in a bowl; set aside. Beat the egg whites in a mixing bowl at medium speed until foamy, 1 minute. Add the cream of tartar and then the sugars, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the meringue is shiny and thick, 6 to 7 minutes. Gently fold in the almond mixture.

4. Carefully spoon the meringue into a pastry bag fitted with a plain 1/2-inch tip. Pipe the meringue in a spiral to completely fill each of the 3 circles. If any meringue is left, change the pastry bag to a star tip and pipe small stars onto the baking sheets between the circles. They’ll be used later for decorating the dacquoise; set aside.

5. Bake the meringues until they are dry but not browned, 1 hour. Turn off the oven and let the meringues stand in the oven overnight. The meringues can be prepared 2 to 3 days ahead; wrap and store in a dry place.

Ganache

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped

1/2 cup whipping cream, scalded

1 1/2 tablespoons rum

1/2 cup whipping cream, cold

1. Melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler set over simmering water. Remove the pan from the water; stir in the cream. Whisk until smooth, then blend in the rum. Refrigerate, covered, until firm but not hardened, 1 hour.

2. Remove the ganache to a large mixer bowl and beat until the consistency of frosting, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Beat the cold cream until it forms soft peaks, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir about 1/4 of the whipped cream into the ganache to lighten, then fold in the remaining cream. Refrigerate at least 1 hour, covered, until ready to use.

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Buttercream

1 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup water

6 egg yolks, room temperature

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

3 tablespoons instant coffee powder

2 tablespoons hot brewed coffee

1. Combine the sugar and water in a heavy saucepan and heat to boiling. Cook, without stirring, until the mixture reaches 250 degrees on a candy thermometer.

2. Meanwhile, beat the yolks until thick. Pour in the sugar syrup in a thin stream, beating constantly until the mixture cools, about 10 minutes.

3. Beat in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Dissolve the instant coffee in the brewed coffee; beat into the buttercream. Refrigerate, covered, until firm but spreadable, about 1 hour.

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Whipped cream

1 cup whipping cream, cold

3 tablespoons powdered sugar

1 tablespoon instant coffee powder

2 tablespoons rum

1/2 cup toasted sliced almonds, for garnish

1. Beat the cream until it starts to hold peaks. Beat in the sugar, instant coffee and rum. Continue beating until stiff, 4 to 5 minutes. Refrigerate 20 minutes.

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Assembly

1. Place one meringue layer on a platter and spread with a thin layer of buttercream. Cover with ganache, smoothing in an even layer. Top with a second meringue layer and spread with whipped cream. Top with the last meringue layer.

2. Spread the side and top of the dacquoise with the remaining buttercream. Using a pastry bag, pipe any remaining buttercream in a pattern over the top.

3. Sprinkle the top with the almonds and decorate the side with meringue stars. Refrigerate 1 hour.

Each serving: 497 calories; 35 mg. sodium; 198 mg. cholesterol; 34 grams fat; 17 grams saturated fat; 45 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 2.09 grams fiber.