2002 Abadia da Cova Albarino

Albarino is getting more and more play on restaurant wine lists around town. Small wonder. With its crisp acidity, beguiling floral notes and medium weight, it’s a wonderful wine with food and perfect for the Southern California climate. This terrific example from Abadia da Cova, in the up-and-coming Ribeira Sacra appellation of Galicia in the northwest corner of Spain, carries a delicate scent of orange blossoms. Its cool acidity is fleshed out with plenty of ripe golden fruit, but what I love most is its extraordinary mouth feel. It’s like silk. And the finish is something you’d expect on a much more expensive wine.

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Quick swirl

Region: Ribeira Sacra, Spain

Price: About $16

Style: Dry, crisp and fruity

Food it goes with: Steamed clams and mussels, chilled seafood, lobster, grilled fish, pasta with seafood.

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Bicentennial 13 in Los Angeles, (323) 932-6178; Liquid Party Works in Chatsworth, (818) 998-3030; Wine Exchange in Orange,

(714) 974-1454; (800) 76WINEX.