2002 Ramey Chardonnay Carneros District

With the prices commanded by top California Chardonnays these days, it has to be a really special occasion -- a coronation or, say, an inauguration -- to warrant popping the cork on one of these rich, oaky fruit bombs. What’s a poor Chardonnay lover to do? Drinking down is awfully hard going once you get used to the good stuff.

Time to discover David Ramey’s Chardonnays. He’s got some extraordinary single vineyards, but also an incredible value in his 2002 Ramey Chardonnay from the Carneros District. A stickler for terroir and typicity, he blends the younger grapes from four sites to make a toasty, hedonistic Chardonnay with the richness and complexity of the big bombers at an accessible price. Small wonder this one is jumping off the shelves.

Quick swirl

Region: Sonoma County

Price: About $32

Style: Rich and tropical

Food it goes with: Chicken fricassee, seared scallops in beurre blanc, fish in Champagne sauce

Where you find it: Available at fine wine retailers

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-- S. Irene Virbila