2003 Chateau de St. Cosme Cotes-du-Rhone blanc

The Barruol family aren’t exactly newcomers -- they’ve been making wine at Chateau de St. Cosme (“comb”) for 14 generations. Famous for extravagantly perfumed Gigondas, the southern Rhone estate also produces this seductive Cotes-du-Rhone blanc with scents of peach leaves and flowers. A lovely pale gold in color, the taste is opulent and honeyed, like Condrieu on steroids. A truly interesting white in the tradition of Southern Rhone with some Viognier in the blend. It’s terrific as an aperitif but also goes well with lusty soups, seafood and vegetable first courses.

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Quick swirl

Region: Southern Rhone

Price: About $15

Style: Aromatic and lush

Food it goes with: Seafood and vegetable first courses

Where you find it: Friends of the Vine in Redondo Beach, (310) 792-5940; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; (800) 76WINEX

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-- S. Irene Virbila