For the Incas, now you

LAST year, the USDA issued the newest versions of its food pyramid and dietary guidelines, with a new recommendation to “make half your grains whole.”

The reasoning is pretty simple: Whole grains have more fiber, vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals than refined foods such as white rice, white bread and any other product made with white flour. Many nutrients are stripped away when the grains are milled.

Currently, though, whole grain labeling on foods can be confusing because there are no standards. A pizza wrapper or bagel wrapper may carry the words “whole wheat,” but there’s no way to know how much whole wheat flour these foods actually contain.

People also don’t know how much whole grain they should be eating -- or, sometimes even more basically, what a whole grain food is. And yes, it can get tricky. Rolled oats are a whole grain, but cream of wheat is not. Corn tortillas, yes; most flour tortillas, no. Many consumers opt for a few basic staples such as 100% whole grain bread, shredded wheat and brown rice, which can get boring.

In fact, there is a world of whole grains to explore that can help lift meals out of the ordinary.

There is millet, the oldest of grains, with a strong nutty, flavor. There’s triticale, a modern hybrid of wheat and rye that has more protein than either of the parent grains and a high amount of lysine, an essential amino acid, from the rye. There’s spelt, a cousin of modern wheat, that has been experiencing a revival in health food stores and regional Italian cuisine. Also amaranth and quinoa, ancient South American foods that are higher in protein than other grains.

Adventurous cooks might want to try the more unusual quinoa (pronounced keen-wa), a relative of Swiss chard, spinach and beets that has been cultivated for thousands of years in South America, where it is known as the “mother grain.” Quinoa’s importance in the ancient diet surpassed even that of corn: Legend has it that ancient Incan armies ate a mixture of fat and quinoa -- known as “war balls” -- to keep them going in battle.

Although this concoction may not catch on as a replacement for trail mix, quinoa does have a lot going for it.

Technically, quinoa is a seed, but because it is consumed like a grain its nutritional composition is traditionally compared to other grain foods.

It is higher in lysine than any other grain and is rich in methionine -- another essential amino acid that is somewhat low in traditional vegetarian protein sources such as soy. This makes it a terrific complementary protein for use in vegetarian diets. The protein quality of quinoa, in fact, is comparable to cow’s milk. It also contains more iron per serving than rice, corn, wheat or oats.

The seeds are small, usually pale yellow in color, with a delicate, slightly “green” flavor and soft texture. The germ of the seed is unusual in that it wraps around the outside of the grain so that as it cooks, the germ spirals away from the grain and forms a little crunchy tail, somewhat like a bean sprout. And quinoa cooks quickly -- in about the same amount of time as white rice.

The unique flavor and texture is delicious on its own, but quinoa is also great prepared as a pilaf or hot breakfast cereal. It can be cooked directly in soups or left to cool, then tossed with chopped vegetables and lean protein for a tasty and nutritious main dish salad.

It’s best to wash quinoa before you use it. As the seeds develop, they become naturally coated with a bitter, soap-like substance called saponin that protects the seed from predation by birds and insects. (Quinoa’s saponin is still used in South America as a detergent for washing clothing.) Packaged quinoa has been treated, but a quick rinse before cooking will remove any remaining traces of saponin.

Until there is more federal guidance, consumers will likely remain confused about the labeling of foods made with whole grains.

But there is no mistaking spelt, quinoa, triticale and millet for anything other than what they are -- unusual and healthy whole grains, pure and simple.

Susan Bowerman is a registered dietitian and assistant director of the UCLA Center for Human Nutrition.

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Don’t let the labels fool you -- read carefully

Trying to buy whole grain foods? Read your labels carefully. Many cereals, bread, pastas and crackers are labeled “made with whole grain” but that doesn’t mean they’re good sources. Bread labels should state “100% whole wheat” or “100% whole grain,” and the first ingredient should be “whole wheat flour.” (“Wheat flour,” in contrast, is refined white flour).

Don’t let the color fool you: Some white breads might have a handful of cracked wheat and caramel color added to them to make them look more like whole wheat. Similarly, “stone ground” or “multi-grain” may sound healthy, but items labeled this way might still be predominantly refined grain foods.

Buckwheat, bulgur, cornmeal, millet, quinoa, triticale, brown rice, rye, oats, and wild rice are all 100% whole grain and remain so even if they’re ground, rolled or flaked before packaging. If the package of a multigrain product lists only these ingredients, it is also completely whole grain.