L’Assiette to open in February, serving steak frites and only steak frites

L’Assiette is the new restaurant that’s expected to open in February in the space that currently houses Colonial Wine Bar (and before that All’Angelo) on Melrose Avenue. L’Assiette owner Jacques Fiorentino plans on serving just one thing, and that’s the classic French (and Belgian) brasserie dish steak frites.

“If there is anything resembling the French national dish, steak frites is it,” Fiorentino says. “I was raised on it the way kids here are raised on pizza and hamburgers, and after decades of dining and travel, it’s still my favorite dish of all time, especially when complemented by a good glass of red wine and followed by a good cheese. That, to me, is culinary heaven.

“If it’s the only dish we are offering, then yes, we can give it all the care and love it deserves down to every infinitesimally small detail.”

The restaurant also will serve beers and wines sourced by Fiorentino, by the glass or bottle. The meal, starting with a soup or salad, centers around the steak frites, traditionally pan-fried to rare. At L’Assiette, the steak frites will be served in two courses.

That means you first get half of your steak frites, and once you’re finished with that, the server circles around to serve the second half. That way the steak and fries are as fresh as possible. Diners also can order cheese or dessert for the finale.

Colonial Wine Bar’s owner, Mary Anne Reyes, will close the restaurant on Sunday. She will remain a partner in L’Assiette, with Fiorentino heading the transformation.

7166 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 657-1827.

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