Name of restaurant: Ostrich Farm, after a bygone railway that traveled the nearby hills and ravines to Griffith Park. (No ostrich on the menu.)
What dish represents the restaurant, and why: Pork "ossobuco" with polenta and grilled broccolini. This isn't for ossobuco purists who are expecting a bone-in veal shank. It's tender, tender pork, served on a soft mound of creamy polenta (rather than the traditional Milanese risotto) and fire-grilled broccolini. Simple, but the dish reflects the time and care that went into preparing it.