Jonathan Gold was the restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times. He won the Pulitzer Prize in criticism in 2007 and was a finalist again in 2011. A Los Angeles native, he began writing the Counter Intelligence column for the L.A. Weekly in 1986, wrote about death metal and gangsta rap for Rolling Stone and Spin among other places, and was delighted that he managed to forge a career out of the professional eating of tacos. Gold died July 21, 2018.
This Filipino recipe for Shanghai lumpia comes from chef Charles Olalia of Ma’am Sir in Silver Lake and combines a classic pork, shrimp and vegetable filling with a spicy coconut vinegar dipping sauce.