Dining details: Norman’s

Norman’s

Rating: ***

Location: Sunset Millennium Plaza, 8570 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; (310) 657-2400; fax (310) 657-4900; www.normans.com

Ambience: Sophisticated and comfortable -- a restaurant for grown-ups, with views of the Sunset Strip and the state-of-the-art kitchen

Service: Gracious and unobtrusive with particularly good wine service

Price: First plates and salads, $11 to $18.50; main plates, $29 to $39; desserts, $9 to $11; six-course tasting menu, $85 per person

Best dishes: Conch chowder, Tomales Bay oysters with agua fresca, yuca-stuffed crispy shrimp, soy and ginger-painted pork belly, “macho” black grouper, duck breast paella nueva, “Mongolian” veal chop

Wine list: Wide ranging and thoughtful selections that complement the food. Corkage, $25

Best table: One of the curtained booths

Special features: Chef’s table in the kitchen for up to 12 people

Details: Open for dinner 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 6 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Tapas on the terrace menu served 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Full bar. Valet parking, $7 beginning July 10

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.