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The little black bowl

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Restaurant Critic

Most of the time, I know enough never to venture into Alessi, the Italian housewares and high design shop on Robertson Boulevard in West Hollywood. But I had 20 minutes more on the meter and I don’t like to waste my hard-earned quarters. I walked in.

And I walked out with this black bowl, er ... basket, which is what Catalan architect and designer Lluis Clotet calls this quirky steel shape cloaked in black epoxy resin. Inspired by a crumpled felt hat, it’s 2-1/2 inches high and 11 inches wide. The finish is a deep matte black, which, it turns out, shows off food in an extraordinary way.

These big gnarly walnuts from a friend’s tree look wonderful in it, don’t they?

Alessi Sarrià round basket designed by Lluis Clotet in Super Black, $75. Available at Alessi, 313 N. Robertson Blvd. (At Beverly Blvd.), West Hollywood; (310) 276-7096; and online at www.alessi.com. Also at Unicahome.com.

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