Fusion cuisine: An L.A. sampler

Locally, it’s a world of flavors Here’s where to sample the flavors created by half a dozen chefs and artisans who bring together world ingredients for all the right reasons.Moles la Tia. Cutting-edge East L.A. cuisine from chef Rocio Camacho. Her realm is mole, her style is completely open. There’s coffee mole, passion fruit mole, pipián (pumpkin-seed sauce) mole, tequila and lime mole. Trust the waiters. Their suggestions are right-on: Hibiscus mole does go well with venison; pistachio mole with salmon; and tamarind mole with duck. Try the gloriously dense mancha mantales (“table-cloth staining”) mole with pork. Best of all may be the eerie, subtle, strangely clear fianas hierbes (fines herbes) mole -- green, vegetal, crisp -- and great with scallops. 4619 E. Cesar Chavez Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 263-7842.Musha. Japanese pub food in a big, high-ceilinged, bare-wood room that makes you feel like a samurai grabbing a drink after beating down some bandits. There are izakaya favorites such as grilled mushrooms and squash croquettes. And there’s new stuff, insane stuff, like risotto made with cheddar and brown rice. Also, the best spread of the moment -- a dreamy concoction of soft tofu, ricotta and cream cheese whipped and spread over Keebler-like crackers. 1725 W. Carson St. Suite B, Torrance, (310) 787-7344.Olimpus Juices. Fruit juices and dairy- or nectar-based smoothies; vegetable juices, soups and sandwiches made by the Mora brothers. Dairy-based smoothies are particularly satisfying. An oddball wonderment is the chickpea pie, invented by the brothers’ grandmother as an adaptation of a traditional sweet potato pie. The result is a sweet, nutty, warmly satisfying slice of pie. 7107 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 436-7509; olimpusjuices.com.Scoops. Ice cream gone mad with joy. Brown bread with Grape-Nuts is the only recurring flavor; everything else changes daily. You’ll get flavors such as durian-ginger, passion fruit-lavender, avocado-apple, foie gras-pistachio and vegan kabocha squash. Proprietor Tai Kim likes sharp contrasts, vivid flavors, and odd resonances between unexpected partners. But the combinations never feel cold or intellectual; they feel homey and sincere -- like old classics that Kim happened to uncover. Note: This isn’t super-rich premium ice cream, but a lighter, fluffier sort. 712 N. Heliotrope Drive, Los Angeles, (323) 906-2649.Standard Sweets & Snacks. An utterly normal South Indian snack shop with touches of natural fusion including the excellent Italian samosas stuffed with mozzarella and spinach, and the downright bizarre vegetarianchiliburger: a bean-based patty, chickpea curry and spicy pesto. 18600 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia, (562) 809-5009; standardsweetsandsnacks.com.Viet Noodle Bar. Vietnamese food made with a dedication to purity, clarity and freshness and occasional departures from traditional recipes. Hanoi-style chicken pho is refined chicken nectar -- quiet and pure, with no masking flavors. Vegetarian pho is chef-owner Viet Tran’s creation, Californian in its conception, but entirely North Vietnamese in its clarity and simplicity. Tran makes his soy milk every morning from organic beans. It’s sweet, clean and gently nutty. Try it plain or infused with Vietnamese cinnamon or yerba mate. 3313 Glendale Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 906-1575; vietnoodlebar.com. -- C. Thi Nguyen