Potato salad at Gus's Barbecue (Bob Chamberlin / Los Angeles Times) |
Still, the potato salad of your dreams isn't so easy to find in just any deli case or refrigerated section. It can be a disappointingly mushy affair. You'll need to hunt around a bit to find the more imaginative versions -- smoky or spiked with wasabi, made with roasted potatoes or vinaigrette. One we found boasts fresh, crisp vegetables; another is fragrant with celery seed and fennel pollen. Try a Japanese American style potato salad or a vegan combination.
We've selected our favorites, just in time for Father's Day, July 4 and summer fun days ahead.
That's amore: Our favorite, this house-made Italian-style potato salad is spiked with celery seed and heady, wonderful fennel pollen, which makes this a refined dish. The bright acidity of the vinaigrette is a nice counterpoint to the licorice-herbal undertones.
Porta Via, $5.95 per pound. 1 W. California Blvd., Pasadena, (626) 793-9000. Open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday.
A single scoop, please: Japanese mayonnaise (made with rice vinegar) and mashed potatoes are what distinguishes this creamy, simultaneously sweet and tangy, Japanese-style potato salad dotted with sliced carrots and cucumber. It's typically served à la mode-style (as in with an ice cream scoop).
Nijiya Market, $2.98 per serving. 124 Japanese Village Plaza Mall, Los Angeles, (213) 680-3280. Open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
For the vegans (and non- vegans alike): This one's packed with color and texture -- from tender potatoes and crisp vegetables: romaine lettuce, cucumbers and haricots verts. A sweet wasabi-inflected dressing (made with vegannaise) gives it a playful Asian twist.
M Café de Chaya, $6.50 per pint. 9343 Culver Blvd., Culver City, (310) 838-4300. Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Perfect with ribs: It's as if a classic potato salad found its way into a smoker; the essence of smoky bacon infuses every forkful of red-skinned potatoes, mayo and green onion.
Gus's Barbecue, $12.95 per quart
808 Fair Oaks Ave., South Pasadena, (626) 799-3251. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, until midnight Friday and Saturday.
Say cheese: A creamy, sharp dressing studded with pieces of blue cheese pulls together well-seasoned, roasted (yes, roasted!) potatoes and loads of crisp green beans in a one-of-a-kind potato salad.
Joan's on Third, $7.85 per half-pint, $14 per pint and $25.20 per quart. 8350 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (323) 655-2285. Deli hours 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday, until 6 p.m. Sunday.

