FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Los Angeles is undergoing a...

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Los Angeles is undergoing a sort of democratization of good taste, as fancy restaurants rush to open a second string of more affordable places. First L’Orangerie opened Pastel, then Chianti opened Cucina, the Mandarin opened the Mandarette, La Scala opened the Trattoria, Valentino opened Primi. Now comes Le Dome’s new enterprise, the Cafe Colorado (2501 Colorado Blvd., Santa Monica, (213) 828-5057) in the impressive food complex at Colorado Place.

The place is vast and open--you can see straight into the heart of the stainless steel kitchen--and the waiters and waitresses all look like aspiring actors. It has a laid-back, informal feeling. There is an impressive selection of delicious Belgian beers and a well-chosen and well-priced wine list. There’s a full bar. The restaurant’s pride is their vertically roasted chicken, and no wonder; it is very good roast chicken, moist, crisp-skinned and flavorful. Nothing else I tasted was particularly impressive: a rather mushy slice of swordfish, an overdressed salad, a plate of pasta in a soupy sauce. Prices are reasonable, especially for the changing prix fixe dinner. On this occasion it was soup or salad, then meat loaf, and finally flan for dessert--all for a remarkable $12.--RUTH REICHL