ZAP! : Microcooking continues to make waves now that affordable subcompact ovens are here. Simple features, bright colors seem to attract many new microwave buyers.

Countdown--Five . . . four . . . three . . . two . . . one. Five minutes, zap!

Out comes a baked potato. Slash it open and hot steam puffs up--ready to melt away a golden dab of butter if one should want it.

Microwave owners know this is no magic. Microwave baking a potato in about five minutes--as opposed to almost an hour in the conventional oven--is just one of the countless time-saving conveniences a microwave oven provides.

Users will also tell you about their smooth microwave melted chocolate, how you can soften brown sugar from a hard-rock state and how to get the crispiest bacon ever . . . “two slices in two minutes, three slices in three, four in four. . . .”

And then again, no one can argue with them about the microwave’s most useful ability: reheating foods. Why dirty a pot, heat up a stove--or the whole kitchen--when one can instantly revive leftovers beautifully in the microwave?

Microwave ovens are still hot. Aside from reheating, increased use stems from warming of baby foods and formulas by mothers, heating of frozen entrees by singles, pizza warming and popcorn popping, the current rage.

The big question is--particularly applied to consumers who have had their ovens for years--is the microwave being used not just for reheating but also for cooking more than popcorn, potatoes and bacon? One bit of evidence is the burgeoning microwave cookware industry and the reported leap in sales of these products this year. You’ll see store shelves bursting with all sorts of microwave cookware, from casseroles to bundt pans to steamers. Taking support from industry surveys that showed people are actually cooking in their units, manufacturers have surged into the market with goods made of plastic, glass, ceramic and disposable paper materials.

JUMP STARTS HERE Another indication is the increasing number of students in microwave cooking classes, according to Billie Sedan of Kitchen Consultants, who is also project director for J.C. Penney. She explained: “Over the last three years, J.C. Penney has held over 25,000 microwave cooking schools. The 375,000 customers attending have collected some wonderful recipes while learning how to get the most out of their microwave ovens.” She also said many students are taking micro-convection classes being offered by the store. Sedan foresees a growing interest in these combination ovens that can produce excellent dishes.

It is also widely believed that microwave oven sales have continued to pick up due to the increasing number of affordable compact units. Favored by singles, college students and smaller young and older families, the compact models are also making a hit as a second unit for people who own vacation homes. Improved technology in the magnetron tube, the microwave’s lifeline, has brought down the prices of these smaller basic models. Going a step further in design are the “Half Pints” from Sharp Electronics Corp. These subcompact models, the first to come in decorator colors, are available in wine red, pastel blue, pastel yellow, pastel pink and white with pink accents.

Cookbooks With Exciting Recipes

Inspired by the interest in microwave cookery, new cookbooks filled with more exciting recipes have also appeared. Cookbook topics are being geared to the way people are eating today. Barbara Methven’s “Microwaving Light and Healthy” (Prentice Hall Press: $14.95) is a collection of microwave recipes that offer reduced levels of fats, cholesterol, sugars and sodium.

Methven said: “Microwave oven owners who want to cook for health and fitness have a head start. Chicken, fish and vegetables are among the foods the microwave oven cooks best.” Providing a chapter on attractive vegetable recipes, Methven explains that vegetables cooked in the microwave are not only tender-crisp but retain their vitamins and useful fiber as well.

Janet Sadlack, editor of Microwave Times, a recipe subscription magazine from Burnsville, Minn., said: “The microwave fits in really well in giving a change in today’s life style, with people using less fat rather than greasy foods.”

One of the newest microwave cookbooks may turn women off because of its title. However, I found it to be one of the best around as the recipes were quite flavorful and innovative and the authors offer wonderful tips and microwave basics for novice cooks. “For Men Only: Mastering the Microwave” (Barron’s: $12.95) was written by Cici Williamson, syndicated microwave columnist, and John Kelly, a retired naval officer and engineer who loves to cook and to eat. A sampling from their book includes Chicken Thighs Diablo with ginger-garlic, Cajun meat loaf, hot sausage quiche and skewered barbecue shrimp. The book is highlighted by recipes from President Reagan, Bob Hope and other famous men.

Will microwave ovens continue to make waves in the future?

“I can see having more than one microwave oven in the American kitchen in the coming years,” said Ghazi Taki, who developed Micro-Shake, a natural flavor and color enhancer for microwaved foods.

“More children will begin cooking at home at an early age and will be more reliant on the microwave than their parents,” he said.

In addition to becoming more popular in college dorms, Taki sees increased popularity of microwaves in motels, resort areas, motor homes and boats.

In the industry, manufacturers like to think that after the wave of small microwave units subsides, bigger microwave models with a complement of performance features and more programming capabilities will come in full force.

Michelle Palmer, writing in Entree, a gourmet trade magazine, said the theory is that “trade-ups are the somewhat unexpected offspring of the phenomenal success of the subcompact oven; born of eventual consumer dissatisfaction with the performance of the low-wattaged down-sized units.” Consumers who bought larger cavities with few features in the ‘70s and early ‘80s will be seen opting for new models with lower cost, smaller size but more features, Palmer wrote.

To get the heat out of the kitchen this summer, use the microwave oven for various quick cooking tasks. Microwave authorities offer these “cool” tips; some shared some wonderful recipes, given here.

sh Pastry, Meat Tips Diane Lewis and Karen Haas, who developed MicroMeals, microwave cooking gadgets and recipe cards, shared their luscious Fresh Strawberry Pie. “The glaze can easily be made in the microwave as well as the crust,” they said. “One of our favorites is the oil-type pastry crust, which works well in the microwave.”

J.C. Penney’s Sedan said: “If people would use lower power levels on their microwave ovens more often, they would get better results. They should stop overcooking foods in their units. This is especially true of meats and baked goods. Vegetables, however, need to be cooked on high power.” Sedan likes to lean toward easy meals, and two of her favorites given here are Spinach-Filled Bread, a warm appetizer dip contained in a round crusty loaf, and Twice-Baked Potatoes.

Diana Williams Hansen, home economist and free-lance microwave columnist, advised: “When cooking chicken or ground beef, substitute instant bouillon granules in place of salt in the recipe. The granules contain some natural salt, but they also provide extra ‘meaty’ flavor to the dish. In the microwave, meats, especially ones cooked on HIGH, cook so fast that there isn’t as much time for flavor development or browning as there is in the conventional oven. Match the type of instant bouillon with the type of meat you are cooking.”

Thelma Pressman, consumer director from Sanyo, provided some tips on poultry and covering materials. “When cooking poultry, use seven minutes per pound as a cooking guide, using HIGH power (600 to 700 watts). For insurance that the area around the bone is fully cooked, I like to add 10 minutes to the cooking time on a DEFROST setting (200 to 250 watts). This is similar to allowing food to stay in a conventional oven 10 minutes after you have turned the oven off.

Various Covers

“The cover selected for poultry would depend on what you want your results to be like. A crisper chicken should be covered with a microwave paper towel. Wax paper simply placed over the top of the chicken will keep the heat from rising into the microwave cavity and will cook the chicken more evenly by keeping the heat close to the food. A glass, ceramic or microwave plastic casserole cover is the same as microwavable plastic wrap, which will steam the chicken by keeping the moisture in.”

Taki, president of Microwave Foods and co-author of “Fantastic Food From Your Microwave” (available by sending $6.95 to Micro Shake Foods Inc., P.O. Box 53-LAT, Malibu 90265), recommended: “Use your microwave oven along with your conventional oven, and especially with your outdoor grill. For fast and flavorful corn on the cob, barbecued chicken, pork chops or ribs, partially precook in the microwave oven and finish on the grill. Invest in quality freezer-to-microwave-oven-to-table-to-dishwasher cookware that resists staining and sticking. My most useful microwave pieces are a meat rack, a two-quart casserole dish, saucepan and a microwavable spoon.” Taki and his wife, Beverly, share their recipe for Crunchy Fudge Squares, a concoction of butterscotch, peanut butter, chocolate and puffed-rice cereal.

Williamson provided these tips on microwaving cakes: “Always use a solid shortening (such as Crisco) to grease a pan. Do not dust with flour, as it will make the outside of the cake white. Shield a square or rectangular pan with foil because the corners will cook twice as fast as the center. Use transparent or masking tape to affix 2x1-inch rectangles of foil to the outside corners of the pan. Don’t blend microwave cake batters with an electric mixer. It beats too many air bubbles into the batter, which results in a coarse-textured product. Instead, sift the dry cake mix into the mixing bowl and use a wooden spoon to combine ingredients.”

Sadlack of Microwave Times suggested that when using the newer and popular lower-wattage compact ovens or any oven operating at less than 600 watts, you may need to use the maximum time in the range given in recipes for higher wattage and maybe even increase that time slightly to achieve the doneness described. Sadlack recommends microwaving jams and jellies and freezing them this summer, when fruits are plentiful and at their flavor peak.

FRESH STRAWBERRY PIE

1 quart large, firm strawberries

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1/3 cup water

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar

1 baked 9-inch pie shell or Never-Fail Pie Crust

Whipped cream

Wash and hull strawberries. Mix half of berries with cornstarch and water. Puree. Add lemon juice, salt and sugar. Microwave on HIGH, stirring every minute or until mixture thickens, about 6 minutes. Cool. Arrange rest of berries in baked pie crust. Cover with cooked mixture. Chill until set. Garnish with whipped cream.

Note: For taller pie, increase amount of whole berries on pie crust.

Never-Fail Pie Crust

1 1/2 cups flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 cup finely chopped pecans, optional

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup oil

2 tablespoons milk

Mix together flour, sugar, nuts and salt. Combine oil and milk and stir together. Mix dry ingredients with oil mixture until well blended. Pat in 9-inch pie plate. Pierce with fork in bend of plate, piercing at least six times on bottom and around sides. Microwave on HIGH 6 to 7 minutes. Give dish a quarter turn after 3 minutes. Note: Crust is especially good for fresh fruit pies.

SPINACH-FILLED BREAD

1 (16-ounce) loaf round crusty bread

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed, well-drained and cooked

1 (12-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1/2 cup sour cream

1 envelope dry onion soup mix

Dash hot pepper sauce

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 loaf crusty French baguette, cut into chunks for dipping

Cut 1 1/2-inch slice from top of round loaf. Cut out circle 1/2 inch from outer crust. Remove center, leaving 1 inch of bread on bottom. Cut center and top into chunks and reserve for dipping.

Combine spinach with cream cheese, sour cream, soup mix, hot pepper sauce and lemon juice. Mix well. Spoon into bread shell. Place on paper-towel-lined plate. Microwave on 70% power 1 to 2 minutes or until bread is warm. Or using probe, microwave at 70% power to 100 degrees. Serve with bread chunks and surround with fruit, if desired. Makes about 8 servings.

Note: To prepare in advance, prepare filling 1 day ahead and refrigerate. To serve, microwave filling at 70% power 1 to 2 minutes. Stir. Fill bread and microwave as directed.

TWICE-BAKED POTATOES

2 large baking potatoes, about 1 1/2 pounds

2/3 cup low-fat cottage cheese

1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt or Italian salad dressing mix, unprepared

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

Paprika

Select potatoes that are uniform in size. Scrub potatoes, pierce and arrange 1 inch apart on trivet or roasting rack. Microwave on HIGH 8 to 10 minutes or until potatoes still feel firm to touch but are easily pierced with fork. Wrap with foil and allow to stand 10 minutes.

Cut potatoes in halves lengthwise. Scoop out potato, leaving 1/4-inch-thick shell. Place potato pulp in 1-quart mixing bowl. Add cottage cheese and seasoned salt. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Beat until fluffy. Stir in green onions. Spoon equal amount of potato mixture into each shell. Sprinkle with paprika. Microwave on HIGH 4 minutes or until potatoes are heated through. Makes 4 servings.

BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER PICK-UPS

1 small head cauliflower

1 head broccoli

2/3 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 teaspoons tarragon leaves, crushed

2 teaspoons paprika

1 teaspoon salt

Dash black pepper

Wash cauliflower and broccoli. Pat dry. Separate into florets. Cut larger florets into bite-size pieces.

Microwave butter on HIGH in small glass dish 1 to 1 1/2 minutes or until melted. Combine cheese, tarragon, paprika, salt and pepper in plastic bag. Dip several pieces of vegetables at a time in melted butter. Add to crumbs and shake to coat evenly. Repeat with remaining vegetables. Arrange in single layer in 2 (12x8-inch or 12x9-inch) round glass baking dishes. Cover with paper towels. Microwave each dish on HIGH 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 minutes or until tender. Serve warm on wood picks. Makes about 80 snacks.

CHICKEN THIGHS DIABLO

3 tablespoons soy sauce

4 teaspoons cornstarch

1/4 cup dry Sherry

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic or 1 clove garlic, minced

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 pounds chicken thighs (skin removed, if desired)

Paprika

In 8-inch round or square baking dish, combine soy sauce and cornstarch. Stir well to smooth out all lumps. Stir in Sherry, ginger, garlic and cayenne. Rinse chicken in cool water and pat dry using paper towels.

Place chicken in dish and coat each piece in soy sauce mixture. Arrange pieces skin-side down with meat portions toward outside of dish (pieces will be tightly squeezed to fit dish). Cover with wax paper and microwave on HIGH 6 minutes.

Turn each piece over, keeping meaty portions toward outside of dish. Stir sauce so that it will thicken evenly and spoon sauce over chicken. Sprinkle with paprika. Re-cover and microwave on HIGH 6 to 8 minutes.

Let chicken rest 5 minutes. Spoon sauce over chicken to serve. Makes 4 servings.

CRUNCHY FUDGE SQUARES

1 (6-ounce) package butterscotch morsels

1/2 cup peanut butter

4 cups crisp rice cereal

1 (6-ounce) package semisweet chocolate pieces

1 tablespoon water

1/2 cup powdered sugar

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

Combine butterscotch morsels and peanut butter in large mixing bowl. Microwave on HIGH 1 minute. Stir well.

Gradually add crisp rice cereal to melted peanut butter mixture. Stir well. Press half of mixture into greased 8-inch square baking dish. Chill in refrigerator.

Combine semisweet chocolate pieces, water, sugar and butter in small bowl. Microwave on HIGH 1 minute. Stir well until smooth. Pour chocolate mixture over rice cereal. Spread remaining rice cereal mixture on top. Press gently. Chill and cut into 25 (1 1/2-inch) squares to serve. Makes 25 squares.