Out of Ideas for Holiday Entertaining? : A Number of Books Offer Helpful Hints From Thanksgiving to Tailgating

Several books devoted to getting the most from the holiday season have been published this year. All include recipes, but each also contains a variety of other helpful hints and assistance on everything from entertaining to returning a gift.

“Season’s Greetings” by Marlene Sorosky (Harper & Row: $18.95, hardcover; Perennial Library: $8.95, paperback) is organized by each holiday, with recipes ranging from traditional Thanksgiving feasts to munchies for nibbling while watching the Bowl games.

In between are ideas for Christmas Eve suppers, a holiday open house, Christmas buffets, cocktail parties, breakfasts, teas and a New Year’s party. All recipes may be partially or fully made ahead.

The book also includes ideas for party themes, menus, table decorations and gifts. Color photographs depict many of the recipes and tips.

Sorosky says her Orange Spiced Yam Pudding with crushed gingersnap crust “differs from mashed sweet potatoes, as it cuts into perfect portions.” It would make an ideal accompaniment to turkey.

ORANGE SPICED YAM PUDDING

30 gingersnap cookies

1 (2-pound 8-ounce) can yams, drained

1 (1-pound 13-ounce) can yams, drained

3 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 cup sugar

Grated peel of 1 orange

1 cup half and half

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

Crush gingersnaps to fine crumbs in food processor fitted with metal blade or with rolling pin. Reserve 1/2 cup for topping. Press remaining crumbs over bottom of 13x9-inch greased baking dish.

Place yams in large bowl and beat with electric mixer at medium speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add eggs, 1 at time, mixing well after each addition. Blend in salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, sugar and orange peel.

Reduce mixer speed to low and slowly pour in half and half and lemon and orange juices, mixing until incorporated. Pour mixture over crumb crust, smoothing top. Sprinkle with reserved 1/2 cup crumbs. Dot with butter.

Bake, uncovered, in center of oven at 350 degrees 1 hour or until puffed and golden and knife inserted in center comes out clean. Cool 20 minutes before cutting into squares. Makes 12 to 14 servings.

Note: Casserole may be refrigerated or frozen after baking. Cool to room temperature, cover and refrigerate or freeze. Before serving, bring to room temperature and bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes or until heated through.

“The Holidays” by John Hadamuscin (Harmony: $19.95) is a collection of 21 menus for elegant entertaining from Thanksgiving to Twelfth Night. Each is preceded by a timetable, table-setting tips and beverage suggestions to assist with a key element to successful entertaining--organization.

Beginning with ideas for make-ahead gifts, the book goes on to cover a harvest dinner for Thanksgiving, cookie baking, tree-trimming and wassailing buffets and a feast of seven fishes. There’s also a selection of Christmas and New Year’s brunches and breakfasts.

The choice of Christmas Day menus includes plantation, Dickensian and nouvelle dinners as well as a king’s feast. Then it’s on to a candlelight dinner for New Year’s Eve and a Rose Bowl tailgate party. The book concludes with a diet dinner to get the New Year started off right. Sixteen pages of color photographs accompany the more than 200 recipes.

Hadamuscin describes his Steamed Ginger Pudding as a “light, golden pudding” that is “a nice alternative to the more traditional and heavier plum pudding.” He considers the Cranberry Fool “a perfect contrast in color, temperature and texture to Steamed Ginger Pudding.”

STEAMED GINGER PUDDING

2 cups (1 pound) butter or margarine, softened

1/4 cup sugar

4 eggs

5 cups flour

2 tablespoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

2 cups milk

1 cup chopped preserved ginger

3/4 cup red currant jelly

Cranberry Fool

Cream butter and sugar together in large bowl. Beat in eggs, 1 at time. Sift together flour, baking powder, salt and ground ginger. Beat into butter mixture. Slowly beat in milk, then stir in preserved ginger.

Grease 2-quart pudding mold. Pour in batter and secure lid, or use turk’s head mold covered with foil. Place mold in large kettle and pour in enough hot water to come about halfway up sides of mold. Cover kettle and place over medium heat.

Steam pudding about 2 1/2 hours or until wood pick or cake tester inserted in center comes out clean. Replenish hot water as necessary during steaming. (Pudding may be made to this point up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated.)

Allow pudding to cool about 1 hour before serving. If made ahead, bring to room temperature, then steam about 45 minutes before serving.

To glaze pudding, melt red currant jelly in small heavy saucepan and cook until syrupy, 5 to 7 minutes. Unmold pudding and invert onto serving plate, then brush with glaze, covering pudding completely. Serve warm pudding cut into thin slices, topping each serving with generous dollop of Cranberry Fool. Makes 12 servings.

Note: Preserved ginger is available in Oriental and specialty food stores.

Cranberry Fool

2 cups cranberries

1 cup sugar

2 cups whipping cream

Place cranberries and sugar in small heavy saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until all cranberries pop and thick syrup has formed. Lightly crush berries against side of pan with back of spoon. Remove from heat, cover and cool, then chill thoroughly.

Whip cream in chilled bowl until stiff peaks form. Gently fold in cranberry mixture. Refrigerate up to 4 hours before serving. Makes about 6 cups.

Stories, poems, Christmas carols, crafts and recipes all are included in “The Whole Christmas Catalogue” (HP Books: $12.95). There are also gift suggestions and stocking stuffers for children, cooks, sportsmen, travelers and gadgeteers. A list of reliable mail-order houses assists those who prefer to shop from home.

After purchases are made, the book offers tips on how to wrap a package and gives details on shipping. Because there are always one or two items that need to be exchanged, it even goes into how to return a gift.

The decorations and crafts section includes a variety of stockings, pillows, tableware, ornaments and wreaths. There’s also a section on the origin of Christmas traditions.

Brussels Sprouts With Chestnuts incorporates two seasonal favorites in an excellent accompaniment to holiday entrees--turkey, standing ribs of beef, duck or goose.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH CHESTNUTS

2 pints Brussels sprouts

12 chestnuts

1/4 cup walnuts or hazelnuts

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons flour

1 cup half and half

Salt

White pepper

Grated nutmeg

Trim Brussels sprouts of tough stems, bottoms and outer leaves. Set aside. Make small X-shaped incision in flat side of each chestnut. Roast chestnuts over open fire or in heavy skillet over burner of stove, turning frequently until open and softened inside. Allow to cool, then peel.

Reserve 8 whole chestnuts. Grind remaining chestnuts, walnuts and 3 tablespoons butter in food processor until smooth. Set aside.

Steam Brussels sprouts over small amount of water, beginning with large sprouts and then adding smaller ones, until tender but not too soft. Keep warm.

Cook flour, stirring, in heavy skillet until light brown. Allow pan to cool slightly, then whisk in 3 remaining tablespoons butter and cook, stirring gently, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in cup lukewarm half and half, followed by nut butter. Whisk until smooth, then add remaining 3/4 cup half and half.

To serve, gently combine Brussels sprouts, reserved chestnuts and cream sauce. Season to taste with salt and white pepper and sprinkle with nutmeg. Makes 8 servings.

“The Holiday Dessert Book” by Kathy Cutler (Macmillan: $19.95) covers celebrations throughout the year--not just in the months of November and December. However, well over a third of the book is devoted to Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s.

The author’s notes on origin and customs of the holidays and recipes adds an interesting touch to the book.

“All the recipes in this book have been tested, revised and adapted for the contemporary cook. Yet, refined though they often are, the recipes are true to the originals,” Cutler states. There are eight pages of color photographs depicting 15 of the nearly 200 recipes from around the world.

Hermits are a favorite Christmastime cookie in the South, says the author. The spicy drop cookies are studded with walnuts, raisins and citron.

HERMITS

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 1/4 cups light brown sugar, packed

3 eggs

2 cups flour

2 tablespoons milk

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

2/3 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup finely chopped citron

Cream butter and sugar in mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Add eggs, 1 at time, beating after each addition. Gradually add flour, milk, baking soda, nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves, mixing well.

Stir in nuts, raisins and citron. Mix thoroughly. Drop by teaspoons onto lightly greased baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees 12 to 15 minutes or until firm to touch. Store in airtight container. Makes 6 dozen.