El Sandwich Stars Here

“When a real Cuban goes into a restaurant, the first thing he orders is el sandwich cubano. If that’s good, then he knows that everything else will be too.”

Is that true? Frankly, I don’t know. It’s what the waiter at the new Cafe Habana, 7465 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (213) 655-2822, told me as I was finishing up my dinner. Indeed, el sandwich cubano, a hefty wedge filled with ham, pork, Swiss cheese, pickles, butter, mayonnaise and mustard was what the Cubans at the next table seemed to be eating. In fact everybody in this hip little upscale fast-food joint seemed to be hoisting said sandwich and munching on shoestring potatoes. Meanwhile, we all balanced on our stools and stole surreptitious glances around the clean, brightly lit space.

You could try the more important plates of food-- ropa vieja ($8.25), shrimp in garlic sauce ($9.95) or arroz con pollo ($8.95). You should try the tropical milkshake ($3.25). But I’d say el sandwich ($4.95) was the big hit here. As my Miami friend said, “If I were at home, I’d never even bother with the other dishes. If the sandwich is good, why order anything else?”