Rustic Mediterranean

Is this the food for the ‘90s?

Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 938-1447. Style: Rustic Italian serving trendy simple and delicious food. Setting: High tech romantic. Recommended: Poached mozzarella with pesto and tomatoes; fettuccine with mascarpone; fish soup. Cost per person: $20-$40.

Chapo Restaurant, 7661 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 655-2924. Style: Eccentric Franco-Mediterranean. Setting: Sleek and sassy. Recommended: Agneau a la bretonne, lamb garnished with small white beans in garlicky lamb stock; osso buco with ginger risotto; spicy lamb sausage with sweet peppers. Cost per person: $15-$30.

Fino, 24530 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance. (213) 373-1952. Style: Changing menu of Italian and Provencale with Spanish, Greek, Balkan and Lebanese accents. Setting: Rustic bistro with large mural dominating the room. Recommended: Farfalle with ground lamb; rabbit braised in wine sauce with pine nuts; deep-fried frog legs with vinegar and hazelnut sauce. Cost per person: $15-$30.

Great Greek, 13362 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 905-5250. Style: Massive portions of Mediterranean home-style cooking. Setting: Pseudo seaside cafe with loud music and dancing waiters. Recommended: Horta, steamed escarole with lemon and olive oil; char-grilled octopus; rack of baby lamb. Cost per person: $10-$40.

Opera, 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. (213) 393-9224. Style: Casually elegant miscellaneous Mediterranean. Setting: Beach chic. Recommended: Walnut olive bread; whole spiced marinated fish; grilled lavender chicken. Cost per person: $20-$45.