Dependable Dining : <i> No surprises, just food you can count on.</i>

Brighton’s, 7228 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 937-2801. Style: California cuisine with a New York accent. Setting: Archie Bunker visits Melrose Avenue. Recommended dishes: Scungilli; baked clams oreganata; pork chops. Cost per person: $15-$25.

El Torito Grill, 9595 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. (213) 550-1599. Style: Southwestern minichain complete with applewood smoker and mesquite grill. Setting: Beverly Hills El Grande. Recommended dishes: Salmon picadillo; Santa Fe hash; Midwestern beer sausage. Cost per person: $12-$25.

Les Freres Taix, 1911 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 484-1265. Style: Old-fashioned French for wine lovers. Setting: Grotto. Recommended dishes: Escargots; roast chicken; attereau of beef. Cost per person: $8-$25.

Penguin Restaurant, 1670 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica. (213) 399-9900. Style: Genuine ‘50s diner remodeled and redefined to suit the ‘90s. Setting: Neo diner. Recommended dishes: Chili sundae; tribute to White Castle slider hamburger; corned beef hash. Cost per person: $5-$15.

Visconti, 1541 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. (213) 395-9101. Style: Italian hideaway serving music with the macaroni. Setting: Patio, plants, paintings and piano. Recommended dishes: Radicchio and arugula salad; Linguini alla vongole, linguine with clams, oil and garlic; pizza alla checca , tomato, basil and garlic pizza. Cost per person: $15-$35.