Beef and Potatoes : <i> Sometimes nothing will do but a steak and a baked potato. </i>

Dal Rae, 9023 E. Washington Blvd., Pico Rivera. (213) 723-1061. Style: For those who want a restaurant like it used to be. Setting: Steakhouse masculine. Recommended: New York steak; filet mignon. Cost per person: $25-$50.

Pacific Dining Car, 1310 W. 6th St., Los Angeles. (213) 483-6000. Style: Old politico steak and handshake hangout; open 24 hours. Setting: Dark and clubby. Recommended : New York or porterhouse steak. Cost per person: $20-$40.

Ray’s Porter-House, 11235 Tampa Ave., Northridge. (818) 363-1477. Style: Great steaks in generic wrappers. Setting: Mom and pop. Recommended: Any of the charbroiled steaks. Cost per person: $15-$25.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 859-8744. Style: Where the elite eat red meat. Setting: Dark-mirrored masculine paradise. Recommended: Porterhouse steak for two (three pounds of meat). Cost per person: $42.

Tribeca, 242 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 874-2322. Style: Boy Food for fans of athletics and good service. Setting: Black and white with color TV. Recommended: Top sirloin steak. Cost per person: $20-$35.