They Are Specialists : <i> Each of these restaurants is a legend in its own way. </i>

The Apple Pan, 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles. (213) 475-3585. Style: Westside ‘50s landmark known for great hickory burgers, pies and fries. Setting: Diner diorama. Cost per person: $5-$12.

Chasen’s, 9039 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood. (213) 271-2168. Style: Hollywood legend packed with old-time stars and people who come to see them. Their famous chili is so popular it isn’t even on the menu. Setting: Paneled den. Cost per person: $40-$60.

Lawry’s Prime Rib, 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills. (213) 652-2827. Style: Where Californians have been going for years to eat prime rib and creamed spinach. Setting: ‘40s formal. Cost per person: $20-$30.

The Original Philippe’s, 1001 N. Alameda St., Los Angeles. (213) 628-3781. Style: L.A. institution with 10-cent coffee and superb French-dip sandwiches. Setting: Sawdust and Formica. Cost per person: $4-$10.

Una Shin, 123 S. Weller St., Los Angeles. (213) 617-1082. Style: The only restaurant in America that serves nothing but eel. Setting: Japanese standard. Cost per person: $10-$20.