A Guide to the Best of Southern California : FAVORITES : BABY FOOD

PITY POOR LITTLE Miss Muffet on her dismal diet of curds and whey, and Jack Sprat who couldn’t think of eating nary a French fry. It’s really no wonder so many kids refuse to eat anything but the most pedestrian fare. Fortunately, all that’s changing as the over-35 crowd opts for parenthood. These days the family restaurant is not furnished with Formica counters and Naugahyde booths. These moms and dads have not traded tables at Trumps for dinner at Denny’s.

For a number of L.A. restauraters, now moms and dads themselves, who make dinner reservations at the drop of a hat, the process may also include reserving a highchair and checking out the breast-feeding policy at their favorite watering holes. A few calls to the restauraters of some of L.A.’s best-loved eateries have given us a whole new look at the Los Angeles dining scene.

Piero and Stacey Selvaggio owners of Valentino and Primi are the parents of Giorgio, 2 1/2, and Giampiero, 9 months. The Selvaggios have no hesitation about taking the bambinos out to graze. “They have good taste already. We either go to Patrick’s Roadhouse (on the Pacific Coast Highway in Santa Monica Canyon), because we love Bill, the owner, and the atmosphere, or we go to Sand Castle (on PCH in Malibu) Sunday mornings. Sand Castle is perfect for kids; they’ve been welcoming families for many years. Both places are great fun.”

John Strobel of Angeli Caffe, Trattoria Angeli and the soon-to-open Angeli Mare, and wife Carla take their 2-year-old daughter, Jesse, to their favorite places and, of course, Angeli. Jesse’s already lunched at DC3 at the Santa Monica airport, brunched at Michael’s in West Hollywood and sushied at Sushi Suzuki in West L.A., where she favors the California rolls. John Strobel’s advice to couples with little ones is to look for high-decibel restaurants, go early and rethink lunch as a dinner alternative.

“There are always kids running around Citrus,” says Laurence Richard, wife of owner/chef Michel, and mother of Christophe, 6, and Chloe, 17 months. “The restaurant is loud, many of the waiters are family men, and Michel loves kids.” So where do she and super-chef papa take their two little ones? Ed Debevic’s on La Cienega and Starkey’s Deli in the Beverly Center are two favorites, and Laurence and stepson Sebastien, 13, love to go to Matsuhisa on La Cienega in Beverly Hills for lunch. And do they eat at Citrus on Melrose? Mais oui. Christophe’s favorite dish is the chicken ravioli.

Nancy Silverton and Mark Peel of Campanile/La Brea Bakery take Vanessa and Benjamin, 7 and 5 respectively, out to eat as much as possible. Spago, the Sunset Strip stalwart, is their favorite. “The noise level at Spago is perfect for kids,” Silverton says, “and the staff is very accommodating. They’ll even haul out extra chairs so the kids can go to sleep if it gets too late.” No need to ask what kids like to eat at Spago--the pizza wins hands down. The family also loves Canter’s deli on Fairfax, McDonalds and, of course, Campanile.

Chapo on Melrose is one of L.A.’s hottest new restaurants, and its owners, Hilde and Philipe Leiaghat, have gotten into the swing of things by taking Sam, 3 1/2, to Shane, in Beverly Glen Circle, and Citrus. Inspired by their own diners who bring their kids into Chapo, the Leiaghats have found local restaurants growing increasingly hospitable to children. “Bring toys, go early and order for the baby first,” Hilde suggests. “Don’t be afraid to ask for a rush on the little one’s dinner order. It’ll make dinner easier for everyone, and most kitchens understand.” At Shane, Sam loves the pizza.

Roxanne Lewan-Mills, the general manager of L’Ermitage, does not take her 2 1/2-year-old Katie out to dinner at L’Ermitage, but she does dine out frequently closer to home in the Valley. Katie’s personal favorite is Johnny Rocket’s, but she also enjoys the patio dining at Chopstix in Sherman Oaks, a great place for kids to gobble dim sum freely. And grazing at Manhattan Coolers, also on Ventura Boulevard in Sherman Oaks, is ideal for kids both for its food and atmosphere, which is contemporary-cafe-style and casual, respectively.

So what have we learned in restaurant preschool, moms and dads? Noise is good, booths are good, early evening is good, and brunch or lunch is even better. Start young and they’ll be making their own reservations by kindergarten. However, should your little angel be having a little-monster day, be prepared: Most restaurant owners will politely ask you to modify his or her behavior. But as more restaurantgoers become parents, they’re being welcomed by their restaurateur counterparts. So pack up the pampers, the bib and silver spoon. Your table is ready.