By the Sea, By the Sea : <i> For some of L.A.’s best air and best food, try Santa Monica.</i>

Chinois on Main, 2709 Main St. (213) 392-9025. Style: Wolfgang Puck’s other restaurant, this one with a French/Asian twist. Setting: Atomic elan. Recommended: Sauteed foie gras with pineapple; whole catfish with ginger; creme brulee . Cost per person: $35-$50.

DC 3, at the Santa Monica Airport, 2800 Donald Douglas Loop N. (213) 399-2323. Style: Takeoff on grill food. Setting: Nucleus ’90. Recommended : Rack of lamb; charred tuna; sea bass in saffron broth. Cost per person: $22-$50.

Michael’s, 1147 3rd St. (213) 451-0843. Style: Same arty mood and fancy food--slightly lower prices. Setting: Gorgeous garden; good art. Recommended : Saddle of lamb; chicken with duck liver and morels. Cost per person: $40-$60.

Opera On Ocean, 1551 Ocean Ave. (213) 393-9224. Style: Casually elegant Mediterranean. Setting: Beach chic. Recommended: Walnut olive bread; whole spiced marinated fish; grilled lavender chicken. Cost per person: $20-$45.

Valentino, 3115 Pico Blvd. (213) 829-4313. Style: Haute Italian served in haute splendor. Setting: Modern palazzo-esque. Recommended : Warm lobster salad; calamaretti , fried baby squid; veal shanks. Cost per person: $40-$60.