Itch for Italian : <i> When you are struck with a passion for pasta.</i>

Florentyna’s Fresh Pasta Factory, 601 Colorado Ave., Santa Monica. (213) 458-2829. Style: Pasta factory and restaurant for New Agers. Setting: Industrial. Recommended: Lasagna; canneloni alla rossini ; chicken linguine. Cost per person: $6-$12.

Luigi’s Ristorante, 18608 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana. (818) 342-4490. Style: Neighborhood standby offering no surprises. Setting: California white with artificial palm trees. Recommended: Caponata; turkey sausage sandwich; pasta puttanesca. Cost per person: $12-$18.

Madeo Ristorante, 295 Whaler’s Walk, Cabrillo Marina, San Pedro. (213) 831-1199. Style: Sumptuous at the seashore. Setting: Big, with seven private dining rooms, and plenty of plate glass. Recommended: Involtini di melanzane, fried eggplant wrapped around cheese; aragosta e fagioli, lobster with cold, white beans; grandmother’s torte. Cost per person: $15-$40.

Sostanza, 12100 Wilshire Blvd., West Los Angeles. (213) 207-4273. Style: Westside restaurant that has recently developed it’s own personality. Setting: Garish Medieval mural dominates room. Recommended: Polpettine misteriose, turkey meatballs in purplish-brown sauce; bistecca del mangione, aged porterhouse with red wine sauce; costolette svitate, baby rack of lamb in peanut sauce. Cost per person: $15-$35.

Tivoli Cafe, 15306 Sunset Blvd., Pacific Palisades. (213) 459-7685. Style: High-class diner for those with healthy appetites. Setting: Bright and streamlined. Recommended: White bean salad; Popeye pizza, spinach and goat cheese; lamb sandwich. Cost per person: $10-$25.