Apples : A Few Terrific New Ways to Start the Day

This is surely the season to experiment with apples. Explore local markets; look for new varieties. And try to remember what last year’s apples tasted like. Apples, like wine, have vintages, dependent upon the weather and the length of time they are allowed to ripen on the trees.

When shopping for apples, buy firm apples with a fresh aroma. The skins may be either smooth or rough but should be free of bruises. (Some apples may have slight sunburn spots, which look much worse than they taste.) To store apples, keep them refrigerated in a plastic bag.

If you want the ultimate apple experience, and the chance to taste a wide array of apple varieties, write to apple grower Tom Vorbeck at Applesource, a national mail-order marketplace for specialty apples. The Applesource Catalogue is a pure joy for apple aficionados, and Vorbeck ships a tantalizing sampler of apples. The address is Route 1, Chapin, Ill. 62628; the telephone number is (217) 245-7589.

Although most people think of apples as desserts or part of a main course, I have turned my attention to breakfast foods that get their major flavor from apples.

These breakfast recipes are generally less complicated and quicker to prepare than apple desserts, and very easy to make during a busy work week. Where possible (the cake excepted), the cholesterol and fat content are kept to a minimum; the apple flavor is always at the maximum.

These low - cholesterol cornmeal hot cakes are unusually moist for pancakes made with cornmeal, due to the yogurt as well as to the apple. Reinforce their apple flavor by simmering thin apple slices in maple syrup until tender, or stirring some apple butter into the syrup. In either case, be sure the syrup is warm when poured over the hot cakes.

APPLE-CORNMEAL- YOGURT HOT CAKES

1 cup cake flour

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 large egg whites

2 tablespoons sugar

Unsalted margarine, melted

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1 cup nonfat plain yogurt

1 large flavorful apple, about 7 ounces, unpeeled, cored and shredded (best done in food processor)

Sift together flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda and salt into mixing bowl. Add egg whites, sugar, 2 tablespoons unsalted margarine, cornmeal, yogurt and apple. Mix gently until just combined. Do not overmix. (Can be made day in advance and refrigerated, covered airtight. Stir gently before using.)

Heat greased (with margarine) griddle until very hot. Using generous tablespoon batter for each cake, spoon neat rounds onto griddle, gently spreading with back of spoon to about 3-inch diameter. Cook over medium heat until browned on bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn to brown other side. Keep warm in 200-degree oven while cooking remaining batches. Makes 24 to 26 (3-inch) hot cakes

Full of fiber and flavor, these muffins disprove the theory that it’s necessary to use a high proportion of fat to achieve a good muffin. Dried tart cherries or currants can be substituted for the dried cranberries.

APPLE-OAT BRAN MUFFINS WITH DRIED CRANBERRIES

3/4 cup whole-wheat flour

3/4 cup finely ground oat bran

1/2 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup grated unpeeled tart apple

3/4 cup dried cranberries

4 large egg whites

2/3 cup low-fat buttermilk

12 dried cranberries

Combine flour, oat bran, sugar, cinnamon, allspice, baking powder, baking soda, tart apple, cranberries, egg whites and buttermilk in large mixing bowl. Mix until just combined. Do not overmix. Spoon into 12-cup muffin pans lined with paper cup liners or greased with non-stick spray.

Top each with dried cranberry. Place pans in center of oven and bake at 400 degrees until firm and lightly browned, about 22 minutes. Do not overbake. Serve warm. Makes 1 dozen.

Note: For best reheating, use microwave oven on medium power (50%) until just warm, not steaming hot. Timing will depend on number of muffins reheated.

Straightforward and simple, this apple cake is great at a leisurely weekend breakfast or brunch. It’s a delicious dessert as well, served with a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

APPLE COFFEE CAKE WITH CINNAMON SUGAR

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine, room temperature

3/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 large egg

2 tablespoons sour cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 large (or 3 medium) tart apples (Jonathans, Northern Spy or Granny Smith), about 14 ounces total, peeled and thinly sliced

Combine 1/2 cup butter with 1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, egg, sour cream and vanilla in mixer or food processor bowl. Beat or process until smooth and light. Add flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt and mix just until combined. Transfer batter to buttered 9-inch springform pan. Smooth out with spatula.

Arrange apple slices, overlapping, in circle around outer edge of batter, filling in center with slices tucked attractively into place to cover batter. Dot with remaining 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small bits. Combine remaining 1/4 cup sugar and 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon. Sprinkle evenly over apples.

Place pan in center of oven and bake at 350 degrees until well browned and wood pick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, about 1 hour. Cool in pan 10 minutes. Use knife to loosen cake from sides of pan and remove sides of pan. Serve warm. Makes 1 (9-inch) cake.

Note: Cake can be made day ahead and refrigerated, uncovered. Reheat, uncovered, in 350-degree oven until barely warm (not hot), about 10 STEVE