Food to Go : <i> Ordering food to go no longer means settling for fast food. Any of these L.A. restaurants will gladly pack any menu item to go. </i>

Bice, 301 N. Canon, Beverly Hills. (213) 272-2423. Style: Busy Italian with new chef and new attitude. Setting: Designer huge. Recommended: Smoked and cured swordfish; grilled scallops in saffron and lobster broth; carre of veal. Cost per person: $15-$45.

City Restaurant, 180 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 938-2155. Style: Bright lights/big city. Setting: Urban barn. Recommended: Vegetarian platter; City chocolate. Cost per person: $15-$25.

I. Cugini, 1501 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. (213) 451-4595. Style: California/Italian beach restaurant with serious intentions. Setting: Casual--denim meets little black dress. Recommended: Spit-roasted chicken; pizza; veal chop. Cost per person: $10-$15.

Locanda Veneta, 8638 West 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 274-1893. Style: Neighborhood Italian that makes you wish you lived around the corner. Setting: Light, cozy and crowded. To go orders taken for lunch between 11:30 a.m. and noon; dinner orders between 5:30 and 6:30 p.m. Recommended: Fagottini , eggplant with mozzarella in tomato sauce; tortellioni filled with ricotta and spinach with mushroom sauce. Cost per person: $20-$40.

Trumps, 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood. (213) 855-1480. Style: Trendy Melrose restaurant serving food that’s both weird and wonderful. Setting: Sparse with good art. Recommended: Roast duck with black beans and pickled pumpkin; chicken with candied lemon. Cost per person: $20-$35.