Comfort Food : Happiness is a Warm Doughnut

Still warm from the hot oil, freshly made cake doughnuts are light, delicate and not too sweet--the antithesis of the commercial kind. There’s no comparison between them and any doughnuts you might buy.

Cake doughnuts are leavened with baking powder. For best results, the ingredients for the dough should be at room temperature, quickly mixed, then chilled slightly before cutting.

Roll the dough (Step 1) to about 1/2-inch thickness on a lightly floured surface. Cut with a well-floured doughnut cutter (Step 2) or two sizes of biscuit cutters. If you set the cut doughnuts and holes aside on paper towels for about 10 minutes, they will absorb less fat during frying.

A thermostatically controlled deep-fat fryer is a plus, but doughnuts can be cooked in a saucepan using a frying thermometer to gauge the temperature of the oil. Peanut or corn oil is recommended for frying and it should be fresh and at least two to three inches deep.

Heat the oil to 370 degrees, then gently lower a few doughnuts and holes at a time into the fat. Do not crowd the pan or the temperature of the oil will drop and the doughnuts will absorb too much fat and become greasy. Fry two to three minutes per side or until puffed and browned, turning once (Step 3).

Use a slotted spoon or spatula to lower and remove the doughnuts from the fat. Dip the spoon into the hot fat beforehand to prevent the uncooked doughnuts from sticking.

Allow the doughnuts to cool slightly, but not too much--homemade cake doughnuts are best served while still warm, either plain or sprinkled with powdered sugar (Step 4). They may also be coated with granulated sugar or cinnamon sugar; frosted; or frosted and sprinkled with coconut, chopped nuts or candy shots.

CAKE DOUGHNUTS

2 eggs

1 cup sugar

1 cup milk

5 tablespoons melted shortening

4 cups flour

4 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

Oil for deep-fat frying

Powdered sugar

Lightly beat eggs with electric mixer. Slowly add sugar, beating constantly. Reduce speed to low and add milk and shortening.

Combine flour, baking powder, cinnamon and salt. Add to liquid mixture, beating just enough to combine. Chill.

Roll or pat dough out to about 1/2-inch thickness on lightly floured surface. Cut with well-floured doughnut cutter or two sizes of biscuit cutters. Reroll trimmings and continue to cut until all dough is used. Place doughnuts and holes on paper towels and allow to stand about 10 minutes before frying.

Heat oil to 370 degrees. Gently lower few doughnuts and holes at time into fat. Do not crowd pan. Fry 2 to 3 minutes or until browned on 1 side, then turn and brown other side same amount of time. Remove doughnuts from oil with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Cool doughnuts slightly, then sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve warm. Makes about 25 doughnuts and holes.

Variations:

Doughnuts may also be sprinkled with granulated or cinnamon sugar; frosted; or frosted and sprinkled with coconut, chopped nuts or candy shots.

Suggestions for column topics may be sent to Back to Basics, Food Section, The Times, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles, Calif. 90053.