Fuzzy Fresh : Dorothy Holmes’ orchard stand sells five varieties of the tree-ripened fruit.

Dry them for a snack, can them for the future or eat them fresh--whole, sliced, diced or crushed. Any way you choose them, peaches--the sweet, summertime favorite--are ready.

No doubt local grocers are stocking their racks with the fuzzy fruit, but are the peaches picked ripe off the tree?

“That’s the only way I pick ‘em,” said Dorothy Holmes, who offers five varieties of peaches at her roadside stand above Ojai.

“If you pick a peach before it ripens,” she said, “it will never fully recover because its cycle has been broken.” Take a big whiff to test for ripeness, she advises. “If I can’t smell a peach, I don’t trust it,” she said. “It should be perfuming.”

On an acre of fertile land near Los Padres National Forest, Holmes’ orchard has been attracting customers since the late ‘70s. They come from all over Ventura County and beyond.

Whether you’re procuring peaches for eating, canning or a favorite jam recipe, Holmes has the variety that’s best suited.

“Right now, I’ll be selling the Ventura variety,” she said. “There are both large and small peaches growing and there’s a lot of them.”

The Ventura comes in various sizes, giving customers an option.

“Some of my customers like the smaller ones,” Holmes said, “because they are perfect for drying. You can get lots on the drying trays.” According to Holmes, what also makes this peach a favorite for home fruit drying is its firm flesh and its freestone characteristic.

“They’re so easy to split,” she said. “Just give ‘em a twist and you have two perfect halves.”

If you prefer to can your fruit, Holmes recommends the Ventura.

“It has a good, rich, peachy flavor and is perfect for canning because it holds its shape,” she said.

The Tejon variety was available at the stand a couple of weeks ago, but Holmes said you’ll now have to wait for next year to buy this juicy eating type--”They came and went real quick.”

Maturing nicely is the Elberta, which will be ready to pick in about a month, Holmes said.

“The Elberta--which is almost teardrop-shaped--differs from the rest because it is incredibly good,” she said.

Holmes said the Elberta is her best seller. “It’s the one that everybody is familiar with,” she said.

The Elberta is probably your best bet if you want a peach you can bite into and have the juice run down your arm.

A tad more firm and nearly as sweet, the Bonita will be ready for harvest about the same time, Holmes said. Both varieties are freestone peaches.

Any of the aforementioned varieties are likely to be found in back yards throughout Ventura County. But Holmes’ fifth and newest peach type may be an exclusive.

Six years ago, a fire roared through her orchard and scorched a third of the peach trees. And although some of those burned appeared dead, they weren’t.

“The root system sent up shoots that we allowed to grow. Onto these new trees, through trial and error, we grafted a variety called the Rio Oso Gem. It is sort of a deep-red peach. It is a very pretty fruit with a good flavor. We’ll have those later in the summer.”

That’s if a pesky non-paying customer doesn’t devour them. “They’ll be at the stand if the raccoons don’t get them first.”

A last word on Holmes’ peaches:

“They are never, ever sprayed.”

Holmes’ stand is at 16350 Maricopa Highway. It’s open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays though Fridays and 1 to 5 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. “I hope to be open into August,” she said. Call 646-1231.

If you’d rather do the picking yourself, two opportunities exist:

* The Old Creek Ranch & Winery, 10024 Old Creek Road, Oak View, has a few trees to scavenge through. They are open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Fridays though Mondays. Call 649-4132.

* For those in the east part of the county, it may be more convenient to visit Tierra Rejada Ranch. You’ll find ripe peaches at 3370 Moorpark Road, Moorpark. Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Call 529-3690.

SERVING SUGGESTION PEACH CHUTNEY

7 pounds firm, fresh peaches

1 pint cider vinegar

2 pounds dark brown sugar

1/2 cup grated onion

2 1-pound boxes of seedless raisins

five firm apples pared and diced

2 tablespoons white mustard seed

1/4 cup scraped ginger root (or 3 tablespoons ground ginger)

1 1/2 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons paprika

1 tablespoon cumin powder

Grated rind and juice of 2 lemons

Peel and slice peaches about 3/4-inch thick. Cover with vinegar and brown sugar and set aside. Combine remaining ingredients and warm over a low heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thoroughly blended. In separate saucepan, cook the peach mixture for several minutes or until peaches are tender, but still hold their shape. Combine both mixtures, cook together for a few minutes. Pour into sterilized jars and seal securely. Makes five quarts. Use with curries, meat pies, chicken or pork.