In Defense of Eggnog

Eggnog has fallen on hard times. A beverage whose principal ingredients are eggs, cream and sugar doesn’t fit in with our current obsession with cholesterol and calorie counts.

Moreover, in this age of the “New Temperance” some may disapprove of the dizzying doses of rum, whiskey and brandy that make eggnog great.

Then, there’s the noisome question of salmonella poisoning--a remote but increasing risk that arises from eating raw egg yolks.

It’s time to take a fresh look at this holiday potion. Sure, eggnog is rich, but most of us partake only a couple times a year. The calorie counters can take their eggnog in dessert form, thereby killing two birds with one stone. And you can minimize the risk of salmonella by cooking the eggnog--a procedure you’ll find in the recipes below.

Eggnog originated in England as a “het pint,” a beverage made from boiling ale, beaten eggs and sugar. (The word nog may come from noggin , a small drinking cup of 18th-Century Scotland.)

In this country, eggnog became popular around the time of the Civil War. Generals on both sides had famous recipes that made their way into period cookbooks. In the late 19th Century, any respectable bar from Manhattan to the Mississippi River would have had a special tin shaker for mixing eggnog.

As with most drinks that have become national institutions, there is considerable controversy about the proper way to make eggnog. Should it contain whole eggs, yolks only, or whites and yolks separated and beaten separately? Should the alcohol be rum, rye, bourbon or brandy, or a mixture of two or more?

Most recipes call for cream or, at the very least, milk, but there are delectable nogs made with ale or apple cider. Most people drink eggnog chilled, but there are splendid hot eggnogs and eggnog desserts.

Modern times have not been kind to this holiday elixir. The closest many people get to real eggnog is the anemic stuff sold in cardboard cartons in the dairy case. Look through modern recipes and you’ll find eggnog made with skimmed or evaporated milk, rum extract and artificial vanilla. Pretty soon, we’ll be making it without eggs!

This eggnog is based on a French custard sauce called creme anglaise. The advantage of this preparation is that the yolks are cooked, which reduces the risk of salmonella. Be careful not to let the custard mixture boil or it will curdle.

SAFE EGGNOG

1 quart milk

2 cinnamon sticks

5 whole cloves

10 blades mace

1 vanilla bean, split

12 egg yolks

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups dark rum

1 1/2 cups brandy

1 quart half and half or light cream

Freshly grated nutmeg

Combine milk, cinnamon sticks, cloves, mace and vanilla bean in heavy saucepan. Allow to infuse over lowest possible heat 5 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick and reserve for another use.

Combine egg yolks and sugar in large bowl and whisk until mixed.

Bring milk mixture to boil. Gradually whisk into egg yolk mixture. Return to saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring steadily with wooden spoon 2 to 3 minutes, or until foam subsides and mixture thickens to consistency of whipping cream. It should thickly coat back of wooden spoon.

Strain mixture into large bowl then cool to room temperature. Stir in rum, brandy, half and half and nutmeg to taste. Cover and refrigerate eggnog at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. Just before serving, dust top with more grated nutmeg. Makes 12 servings.

Auld Man’s Milk could be called Scottish eggnog. Served warm, it’s an excellent nightcap and soporific.

AULD MAN’S MILK

1 1/2 cups milk

1/2 cup whipping cream

2 egg yolks

3 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/4 cup scotch whiskey

Freshly grated nutmeg

Scald milk and cream in heavy saucepan. Whisk egg yolks, sugar and vanilla in bowl. Whisk hot milk in thin stream into egg yolk mixture. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring with wooden spoon, 1 to 2 minutes, or until mixture thickens to consistency of whipping cream. Do not boil or it will curdle.

Remove pan from heat and stir in whiskey. Pour into 2 mugs. Dust with freshly grated nutmeg and serve at once. Makes 2 servings.

This is the Puerto Rican version of eggnog. It owes its creamy consistency to the presence of sweetened condensed milk. It is so rich you don’t even need to add eggs. (A traditional recipe would call for them.) Unsweetened coconut milk is available canned at Hispanic and Asian markets, or you could use equal parts coconut cream and half and half.

COQUITO

2 cups unsweetened coconut milk

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

2 cups light rum

Freshly grated nutmeg

Combine coconut milk, sweetened condensed milk and rum in bowl and whisk until smooth. Refrigerate mixture at least 1 hour, preferably overnight.

Just before serving, dust top with freshly grated nutmeg. Serve in tiny cups. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

This pie is a sort of Bavarian cream flavored with eggnog spices and served in a crust.

EGGNOG PIE

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

1/4 cup water

2 cups milk

1 cinnamon stick

3 cloves

5 blades mace or 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 vanilla bean, split

5 egg yolks

2/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons rum

2 tablespoons brandy

1 (9-inch) graham cracker crust

1 cup whipping cream, whipped to soft peaks

Freshly grated nutmeg

Soften gelatin in 1/4 cup cold water in small cup. Melt gelatin over pan of simmering water.

Combine milk, cinnamon, cloves, mace and vanilla bean in heavy saucepan. Allow to infuse over lowest possible heat 5 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick and reserve for another use.

Combine egg yolks and sugar in large bowl and whisk until mixed. Bring milk to boil. Whisk in thin stream into egg yolk mixture. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring steadily with wooden spoon, 2 to 3 minutes, or until foam subsides and mixture thickens to consistency of whipping cream. Strain mixture into large bowl.

Whisk into eggnog mixture. Cool to room temperature, then whisk in rum and brandy. Set mixture over pan of ice. Stir with spatula until mixture starts to jell, then fold in whipped cream. Spoon filling into graham-cracker crust. Chill pie at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. Just before serving, dust top of pie with nutmeg. Makes 8 servings.

This frothy dessert is named for the Italian general Baglioni who, in the 15th Century, defended Florence against a bellicose neighbor. Reduced to eggs and brandy (the enemy having captured the provision wagon), the general’s chef invented a dessert that he called zuppa Baglioni, “Baglioni’s soup.” In time, the term was shortened to zabaglione (pronounced tza-ba-YOHN-eh). This version can be made ahead of time, which is a boon for holiday entertaining.

EGGNOG ZABAGLIONE

5 egg yolks

1/2 cup cream sherry

1/4 cup dry white wine

3 tablespoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1 cup whipping cream, stiffly beaten

Freshly grated nutmeg

Place egg yolks, sherry, wine, sugar, cinnamon, allspice and cloves in non-aluminum bowl. Place bowl over pan of simmering water. Whisk mixture vigorously 3 to 4 minutes, or until light and frothy and tripled in bulk. When ready, zabaglione will fall in thick silky ribbon from raised whisk. Do not overbeat or mixture will collapse.

Place egg yolk mixture over pan of ice and beat until cool. Fold in whipped cream. Zabaglione can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead to this stage.

Serve zabaglione in wine goblets or martini glasses. Dust top with freshly grated nutmeg. Also makes great topping for berries or other fruit. Makes 4 to 6 servings.