Hot Pink Chicken

Many years ago in India, I was invited to attend a wedding and to stay with the bridegroom’s family. My hostess, Mrs. Puri, was not only a good cook herself, but she also employed one of the finest cooks in Delhi. I was treated to the most delicious meals I have ever eaten. I couldn’t wait until dinner each night; it was always subtle and different and delightfully spicy. Even the scrambled eggs for breakfast had minced fresh green chiles. The entire house was perfumed with spices. I wanted to stay forever.

During the month of my stay, the only time we ever ate in a restaurant was to go to Moti Mahal (Chicken Palace) to have Chicken Tandoori. Considered by many to be India’s national dish, chicken is marinated in lemon, yogurt and spices, which makes it exceptionally tender, juicy and savory. I was told that this dish is best made in a tandoor oven, which most people don’t have at home.

But when I returned to America, with the taste of tandoori chicken fresh in my memory and a tandoori chicken recipe in my suitcase, I discovered that charcoal grilling enhances the spices perhaps even more. (Hardwood charcoal results in the best flavor.) And throughout the years I’ve discovered that the longer you let the chicken marinate in the spices, the more tender and flavorful it gets.

Chicken Tandoori is not only festive and delicious, it’s practical too, since you can do all the preparation days ahead and only need 20 minutes’ grilling time.

I especially love to make Chicken Tandoori in the summer, when the yellow and orange edible day lilies are in bloom--they make a stunning contrast to the red chicken when used as a garnish.

In India, cochineal dye is used to paint the chicken its traditional fiery red hue, but a little red food coloring does the trick nicely. The chicken is delicious whether served hot or at room temperature.

CHICKEN TANDOORI

2 (3- to 3-1/2-pound) chickens

4 teaspoons salt

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

1 cup plain yogurt

4 medium cloves garlic, quartered

2 teaspoons finely chopped ginger root

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Large dash ground cloves

1 teaspoon red food color

Long green chiles

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 large sweet onion, preferably Vidalia or Bermuda, cut in half lengthwise, each half cut into thin lengthwise slices

Cilantro sprigs

Lemon and lime wedges

Prepare chickens 24 hours or up to 3 days before serving. Rinse chickens and pat dry with paper towels. Cut at all joints. Cut breast and back sections into halves. Remove skin. Slash each piece in several places to enable marinade to penetrate.

Place chicken pieces in large bowl and sprinkle with salt. Add lemon and lime juices and toss to coat well. Let stand 30 minutes.

Combine yogurt, garlic, ginger, cumin, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, pepper, cinnamon and cloves in food processor or blender and blend on high speed until well mixed, about 60 seconds. Pour mixture over chicken, mixing well. Refrigerate, tightly covered, at least 24 hours, preferably 3 days.

Remove chicken from marinade, reserving marinade. Brush with food color.

Place chicken on lightly greased grill rack, arranging thicker dark-meat pieces over hottest part of coals, if using. Grill, covered, brushing with marinade every 5 minutes, until juices run clear when chicken is pierced with tip of knife. Breast and wings will take about 15 minutes, other pieces about 20 minutes. (Marination makes chicken cook faster than usual.)

Grill hot chiles alongside chicken until blackened and tender. Set aside for garnish.

Heat large, heavy pan, preferably cast iron, until very hot. Add oil and tilt pan to coat evenly. Add onion and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes or until browned but still crisp. Remove at once to paper towels.

Serve chicken on large platter, garnished with chiles, onion, cilantro, lemon and lime wedges. If desired, garnish with lilies, edible variety without spots. Makes 6 servings.

Note :

To roast chicken in oven, place chicken on lightly greased rack and roast at 400 degrees 20 to 30 minutes or until juices run clear when chicken is pierced with tip of knife.

To roast in clay cooker, place chicken in cooker (without soaking it). Place covered cooker in cold oven and roast at 475 degrees 20 minutes. Uncover chicken and continue cooking until juices run clear when chicken is pierced with tip of knife, about 10 minutes. (This method simulates cooking in tandoor. It maintains all juices and extracts all fat. Chicken gets more stewed than dry-roasted, but flavors are delicious.)