Punching Up the Pig

Recently I went to my first pig roast, in the charming Victorian town of Belvedere, near my home in Hope, N.J. Disappointed with the gradual diminishing of flavor in the pork of recent years, I went in pursuit of the sort of flavor that Charles Lamb must have had in mind in his “Dissertation on Roast Pig,” which recounts events that (supposedly) took place in ancient China: During a long-ago period known as The Cook’s Holiday, before cooking was known, a farmer and his son took to burning down their farm on a regular basis once they discovered the compelling flavor of the “accidentally” roasted pig.

Just as I arrived at the large tented area with picnic tables, two big men were straining under the weight of the pig, suspended promisingly from a thick steel rod. The pig was browned from the fire and dripping with juices.

I watched as they removed the pig from the rod and began to peel away the skin, placing it in bowls for the few assembled onlookers: me, the wife and kids of the carver and one 11-year-old boy, who wrinkled his nose at the idea of eating the skin--which, by the way, was delicious. As we impatiently waited for the pig to be carved, I asked the 11-year-old what he loved to eat.

“I only like four things,” he said. “Ham, hot dogs, pizza and junk food.”

We were the first to get our plates, and we sat side by side at a long picnic bench, hunched over our roast pig, largely ignoring the corn, rolls, coleslaw and potato salad. The small section of browned meat next to the skin was the best part, but I gradually became aware of the fact that the rest of the meat was pale and utterly flavorless.

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Just as I was in the middle of pretending to myself that the pork was everything I wanted it to be, the kid looked me squarely in the eye and stated without equivocation: “It’s not very good, is it?”

“No,” I agreed.

Then, in his direct and uncomplaining tone, he added, with a smile: “I was kind of hoping for more flavor.”

I stopped in mid-chew. A boy of 11 who shares my own credo--more flavor! Surely, starting this young, he will find plenty of it along the way.

In the meantime, here’s my very best pork recipe. It does not depend on full-flavored meat. In fact, it will work well with veal too. The prune stuffing, vermouth braising and lilting cream and cassis sauce bring out the natural flavors of the meat. The gorgeous, flavorful pork loin is appropriate for the grandest holiday party.

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My new young friend probably does not eat prunes (he did not list them in his top-four category), but I have every confidence that someday he will.

PORK LOIN WITH PRUNE STUFFING

1 (4 1/2- to 5-pound) center cut pork loin roast (bone in), about 10 inches long

1 (12-ounce) package whole pitted prunes

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup Port

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon oil

1 cup dry white vermouth

Sauteed Apples

Cassis Cream Gravy

Using butcher’s steel (long, round knife sharpener) or long, narrow knife, pierce through center of pork from 1 end to other, twisting slightly to form tunnel. Push about 2/3 cup of prunes into tunnel using handle of wooden spoon. Let pork stand at room temperature 1 hour. Season pork to taste on all sides with salt and pepper.

Place remaining prunes in heat-proof bowl. Heat Port in saucepan until hot and pour over prunes. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and set aside. Turn prunes after about 1 hour to moisten thoroughly.

Place butter and oil in Dutch oven or roasting pan large enough to hold pork loin. Heat over medium-high heat until butter is melted. Add pork roast and brown evenly on all sides, about 15 minutes. Remove pork and discard rendered fat.

Return pork to Dutch oven, fat side up, and pour in vermouth. Cover and bake at 325 degrees until instant-read thermometer (inserted toward middle but not touching bone or prunes) reads 170 degrees, about 1 to 2 hours.

As pork cooks, prepare Sauteed Apples.

When pork is done, remove meat to heated serving platter. Set aside in warm place. Do not wash Dutch oven, but use it to prepare Cream Cassis Gravy.

When ready to serve, drain prunes, reserving Port. Place prunes, alternating with Sauteed Apples, on either side of roast. Return remaining prunes to Port to serve on side. Serve, passing Cassis Cream Gravy. Makes 8 servings.

Cassis Cream Gravy

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons flour

1/4 cup whipping cream

1/4 cup creme de cassis liqueur or sweet red vermouth

Salt, pepper

Pour pan drippings and browned bits from Dutch oven used to cook pork into 2-cup liquid measure. As fat rises to surface, skim off and discard as much fat as possible. Add water, if necessary, to make 1 cup liquid. Set aside.

Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add flour and cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Gradually pour in pan drippings, stirring constantly. Add whipping cream and creme de cassis. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until thickened.

Sauteed Apples

2 red Delicious apples, unpeeled

1 tablespoon butter, about

Slice apples into 1-inch-thick rounds. Use small scalloped or plain cutter to remove core from each slice. (If not cooking immediately, place slices in water with dash of lemon juice to prevent discoloring.)

Melt about 1/3 of butter in large skillet over medium-low heat. Arrange as many apple slices as will fit in single layer in skillet. Saute until golden brown on each side, about 3 minutes per side, using pancake turner to turn. Remove slices to plate and cover with foil. Continue adding remaining butter as needed, until all slices are sauteed, in 2 to 3 batches. Set aside in warm place until ready to use.