Gastronomic Delights of the Fish Kind at Antartica

From Adolfo Suaya, founder of the Gaucho Grill mini-chain, comes a new restaurant concept: Antartica Fish & Ceviche Bar in Studio City. “Where the jungle meets the sea on Ventura Boulevard,” gushes a press release.

The decor works hard to conjure up a vision of Antarctica as a place where sea mammals live freely in waters unspoiled by man. Wavy fronds and mysterious sea creatures sprawl across the tiled floor. Fishnets (OK, so they’re man-made) ornament the ceiling.

Antartica restaurant “emerges from the South Pole as a new gastronomical idea,” the menu boasts. And that idea is the ceviche bar, where you can order fish, shrimp, squid or octopus or a combination of any or all with chilies torqued up to your specifications. Salads include fresh squid tossed with lettuce and vegetables in a lemony dressing.

I suspect they’re not going to get many complaints about the size of the portions, which are large, filled out with green salad and a pile of white rice. At $9.95, halibut and salmon are the most expensive items. Fish comes sauteed, grilled or breaded and deep-fried. And if the huachinango frito (lightly breaded Gulf snapper served with a side of salsa) is any example, the cooks have got deep-frying down pat. Seasonings are pretty straightforward: a little butter and black pepper, a splash of lemon, or some olive oil and red onions.

That’s basically it. Except for Key lime pie.

And gosh, on top of being named after an unspoiled continent, Antartica urges its customers to recycle, eat healthy--and come back!

* Antartica, 11838 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City. (818) 508-7536. Open from 11:30 a.m. until 11 p.m. daily (midnight on weekends). Parking in adjoining lot. Major credit cards accepted. Appetizers and ceviche $2.95-$5.95; entrees $5.95-$9.95. Reservations accepted only for large parties.