Pasta alla Bolognese

Sauce Bolognese is a thick, full-bodied meat sauce enhanced with wine, milk or cream. The debate over what constitutes the “classic” recipe never ends. But whatever the ingredients, it is perfect for a cool fall night.

* Farfalla: This bustling restaurant serves a Bolognese made with veal, sage, rosemary, red wine and the unusual addition of green peas at the end for their color and texture. It’s served in a large white bowl and dusted with freshly grated Parmesan. (Fettuccine Bolognese, $9.75.) Farfalla, 1978 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 661-7365.

* Angeli: Owner-chef Evan Kleiman makes a Bolognese with a rich, gamy flavor. It uses veal, sausage, tomatoes and porcini mushrooms, and on request, she’ll omit the tomatoes. (Penne Bolognese, $8.50.) Angeli Cafe, 7274 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 936-9086.

* Replay Cafe: In a relaxed, airy cafe attached to the hip Italian clothing store of the same name, Replay offers a Bolognese of beef, shallots, parsley and red wine. The pasta, usually spaghetti, is lightly sauced, creating a delicate, subtle dish. (Spaghetti Bolognese, $12.) Replay Cafe, 8607 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (310) 854-5818.

* Fresco Ristorante: Glendale’s auto row is home to a reliable, romantic eatery where chef Antonio Orlando makes a unique Bolognese of veal, soppressata (a type of salami), rosemary and porcini mushrooms, served on fettuccine. (Fettuccine Bolognese, $11.) Fresco Ristorante, 514 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 247-5541.

* Toscana: At Brentwood’s elegant Tuscan trattoria, owner Agostino Sciandri sticks to the basics. He serves a simple Bolognese made with veal, carrots, onions, celery and red wine over tagliatelle with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. (Tagliatelle Bolognese, $11.50.) Toscana, 11633 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 820-2448.

* Baci: The Bolognese is thick and rich at this Huntington Beach Italian restaurant. Made with beef, tomatoes, Chianti and plenty of onions, it’s served over any kind of pasta--even cheese ravioli. (Pasta alla Bolognese, $10.95.) Baci, 18748 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach, (714) 965-1194.

* Chianti: You won’t be able to read the menu in this dimly lit old-world Italian restaurant, so just order the tangy-sweet Bolognese made with finely ground veal, carrots, tomatoes, garlic and a touch of red wine. It’s served on spinach tagliolini with a dusting of Reggiano-Parmigiano. (Tagliolini alla Bolognese, $10.) Chianti, 7383 Melrose, Los Angeles, (323) 653-8333.