The Perfect Setting

Life is beautiful, even if you aren’t Roberto Benigni, on balmy fall Sundays at the Waterfront Hilton Beach Resort in Huntington Beach. That’s when sea breezes waft, a harpist on the outdoor patio plays hokey tunes by John Williams and the hotel’s Palm Court restaurant serves its gaudy take on Sunday brunch. It’s quite a spread by any stretch.

Yes, life is beautiful, but far from perfect. For in this most pleasant of locations, the buffet itself is largely forgettable, even if the surroundings are memorable.

The best tables are on an elegant patio, where a harpist competes for your ear with a burbling fountain. Tables are set with white tablecloths and anthuriums. Diners are shielded from the sun by gaudy blue canvas umbrellas, which could pass for fugitives from a jet-set French beach resort.

You wouldn’t find this food on the Azure Coast though. Breads are especially disappointing: doughy water bagels, limp croissants and some desultory Danish pastries. Across from them there is a cheese board highlighted by caramelized brie with a cracking sugar and pecan top--not bad--and a delicious smoked Gouda cheese. An array of sliced fruit, melons in particular, are on the unripe side.

Things do not improve radically when you get to the steam table either. There is one tray brimming with overcooked bacon and sausage. Another tray is filled with some dried-out breakfast potatoes.

Eggs Benedict, a poached egg topped with a proper Hollandaise on a croissant half layered with a nice slab of smoky Canadian bacon, acquits itself in good measure.

But the leg of lamb, in thin slices, isn’t tender enough. And sausage-stuffed sliced pork loin doesn’t have as much flavor as you’d hope; in fact, the salient component of this dish turns out to be salt, and plenty of it.

Meanwhile, back at the omelet station, a chef resplendent in whites is toiling to make you a custom omelet--and doing a good job of it.

Also in this station are waffles you couldn’t spear with a fork, plus some properly ripe strawberries and fresh whipped cream to spoon onto them. I recommend the toppings sans the waffle.

Naturally, there are the de rigueur selections of composed salads, some of which are perfectly fine. The best of about six different salads would be a sesame oil-dressed chicken mixture. And right behind that one would be the cold cheese tortellini tossed with a subtly flavored basil pesto.

Hotels always seem to find talented pastry chefs, and this one is no exception. I’d rate the dessert buffet about the strongest component of this service, about 10 sumptuous options. In no particular order, try the creamy chocolate mousse, good homemade soft cookies, a frothy graham flour-crusted cheesecake and the chocolate-covered strawberries.

Yes, life is beautiful, unless you’ve already had your sugar rush for the day.

The Waterfront Hilton Beach Resort, 21100 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach. (714) 960-7873. Sunday brunch is served 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Adults, $23.95; children under 12, $13.95; kids under 5, free.