Pork Tenderloin

A meaty, boneless alternative to the pork chop, the versatile pork tenderloin can be found grilled, roasted and pan-fried in many good restaurants.

* Paul’s Cafe: Wildly popular, with modest prices, this Cal-French Valley cafe serves an herb-crusted pork tenderloin at dinner. It comes with artichoke mashed potatoes and a pearl onion and mustard sauce. (Pork tenderloin, $14.95.) Paul’s Cafe, 13456 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 789-3575.

* Vermont: This attractive spot serves generous plates of food that manage to be sophisticated and homey at the same time--and the roasted tenderloin of pork rubbed with mustard and herbs is no exception. It’s served with garlic mashed potatoes, grilled vegetables and a very light mustard sauce. (Pork tenderloin, $16.95.) Vermont, 1714 Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 661-6163.

* Standard Coffee Shop: Another homey plate of roast pork can be found at the new Standard Coffee Shop. On the plate with the aptly named TENDERloin of pork are mashed potatoes and dreamy caramelized apples. (Pork tenderloin, $14.) The Standard Coffee Shop, 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood. (310) 650-9090.

* 2087, An American Bistro: This lively bistro serves a grilled New Mexico red chile-rubbed pork tenderloin with crispy poblano-spiked “polenta cheese grits.” The hot pork and grits come with a chilled, juicy Asian slaw made from julienne peppers, jicama, carrot and celery. (Pork tenderloin, $19.50.) 2087, An American Bistro, 2087 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks, (805) 374-2087.

* Michael’s: For sheer impact of flavor, you can’t beat the “Grandma Moses” barbecued pork tenderloin, high-quality meat served with a juicy and fiery jalapeno-cilantro-lime salsa. (Pork tenderloin, $24.50.) Michael’s, 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-0843.

* Perroche: The kitchen here serves a reliably good pork tenderloin. The latest version is a pan-roasted loin of pork with a sweet shallot and oyster mushroom sauce that’s served with “saladaise” potatoes--a sort of single serving potatoes Anna. (Pork loin, $16.) Perroche, 11929 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 766-1179.

* Traxx: Chef Tara Thomas at Union Station cooks up a variation on the tenderloin: She cures a center cut pork loin so it’s very tender, then grills it and serves it with fig polenta, grilled mission figs, sauteed spinach and a touch of reduced balsamic vinegar. (Grilled pork loin, $19.) Traxx, at Union Station, 800 N. Alameda St., Los Angeles, (213) 625-1999.