Three Sisters

From the bustling port of Barcelona in Catalonia to the dusty quays of the Arab city of Alexandria in Egypt and across the shores of the Mediterranean, rice is a beloved food. It is the star of some of the region’s best-known dishes.

But what’s really remarkable about the popularity of rice in the area is that it is not a native plant. The Italians wouldn’t be eating risotto, nor the Spanish paella, nor the Egyptians pilaf if rice had not been introduced to the Mediterranean a little more than 1,000 years ago from the East.

What’s equally remarkable is how different these three distinctive Mediterranean styles are. Each region cooks rice with its own peculiar intricacies. Pilafs are delicate, each grain separate, and paellas are slightly sticky; a lover of either might find a creamy risotto an abomination.

No one knows for sure where rice came from, yet it feeds much of humankind and is as important a staple food as wheat. The earliest evidence of its use is found on pottery from Thailand that dates to 3500 BC. This pottery bears the imprint of rice glumes, the empty bracts at the base of the spikelet of rice.

It wasn’t until Alexander the Great’s expedition to today’s Pakistan in the 4th century BC that rice began to appear on the Mediterranean table. By the time of Christ, the Greek geographer Strabo tells us, rice was growing in Babylonia, northern Afghanistan, Iraq and perhaps in the Jordan Valley. But it was still rare, used in small quantities as a medicine, and it was not grown anywhere in the Mediterranean until the spread of Islam in the 7th century after Christ.

Thanks to the medieval Muslim farmer’s ingenuity--the most advanced agricultural expertise of the time--rice was introduced to the Mediterranean, and before long risotto, pilaf and paella came to be. A medieval European chronicler even called rice “the blessing brought by the Arabs.”

The Arabs have long been famous for their rice preparations. The 9th century Arab writer Ibn Qutaiba said, “White rice with melted butter and white sugar is not of this world,” meaning that it is so delicious, it’s eaten in paradise.

Medieval Arabic cookbooks have many rice recipes, and the great 12th century Muslim agronomist Ibn al-’Awwam said the best way to eat rice is with butter, oil, fat and sweet and rich milk, such as ewe’s milk.

It seems likely that the Arabs and Turks learned to cook rice from the Persians. The word “pilaf” comes from Persian and refers to a method of making rice that is used widely in the Near East. The grains of a rice pilaf are tender, separate and fluffy, never sticky. The cook achieves this by rinsing or soaking away the starch of the rice.

Pilaf rice is always cooked covered and must never be stirred or tampered with it as it cooks. Sometimes, I turn the heat off once the water reaches a boil, cover the top with paper towels and then replace the lid, leaving it undisturbed until all the liquid is absorbed, about 40 minutes.

The most important thing to know about pilaf cookery is how much liquid the rice will absorb as it cooks, and this depends on its age. A rice about 6 months old is ideal. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible for American cooks to know the age of rice. The best thing to do is buy long-grain Basmati or Patna rice--both named for places in India--and cook them with twice as much water as rice. A long-grain American rice is also fine, but converted rice won’t work.

The basic rice pilaf can be adorned with other foods; meat, vegetables or spices, often cooked separately, can be stirred in after the rice is cooked. Pilafs can reach exalted heights, such as the fancy Turkish pilaf called ic, pilavi or “garnished” pilaf, made with lamb, pine nuts, currants and exotic spices wrapped in a Turkish phyllo pastry called yufka. Pilafs can also be very simple, such as the satisfying Palestinian family dish called mujaddara, a pilaf made with rice and lentils.

The Arabs had established rice growing very early on in Spain and were also exporting it from Sicily by the 10th century. In northern Italy, one of the earliest references to rice is a passing mention in a letter written in 1475 by Galeazzo Maria Sforza to the Duke of Ferrara.

It is likely that Muslim cookery influenced early Italian rice cookery. Vincenzo Carves’s cookbook “Il Trinciante” (The Carver), published in Venice in 1581, specifically calls for rice to be cooked in the Arab pilaf manner: riso sottestato alla damaschina, rice cooked under a cover in the style of Damascus--which is nothing but a rice pilaf.

In many parts of Italy, this method is still used. Dishes made from it are called riso rather than risotto, which is a method of cooking rice that originated in northern Italy. A risotto is the opposite of a pilaf. To make a pilaf, one rinses the starch from the rice and never touches the rice while it is cooking; for a risotto, one brings out as much of the starch as possible, even stirring the rice almost constantly during the cooking to make a thick, creamy dish.

There are four basic varieties of rice used in Italian cooking: riso fino, a round medium-grain rice that includes a sub-category called vialone nano--a rice favored by Venetian cooks in making minestra and risotto; riso semifino, a longer-grain rice used in minestrone; riso superfino, which includes the familiar Arborio rice; and riso comune, a glutinous short-grain rice, which includes balilla rice, used for desserts. In northern Italy, one finds a hybrid rice called carnaroli or maratelli, an aged rice older than 6 months used for risottos. If you are unable to find these types of rice, use a short-grain Japanese or medium-grain Spanish rice.

The secret to a perfect risotto is a combination of two elements: a rich, flavorful broth and the gradual addition of the hot broth to the rice. This results in a rice dish that is thick and creamy even without the addition of other ingredients.

Another method of rice cookery comes from Spain. Spanish-style rice dishes, usually called paella or, simply, arroz, are different from pilafs and risottos. The Spanish cook rice in a flat, uncovered vessel, either a metal paella pan or an earthenware olla or cazuela.

The best rice to use is a medium-grain rice called Calasparra or Blue Rose or any so-called Spanish rice.

It is similar to risotto in that the rice is never rinsed and it is sauteed before adding broth or water. In this case, though, the liquid is added all at once. And it is similar to a pilaf in that the rice is never stirred or touched after that, although it is cooked uncovered. The result is grains of rice that are evenly cooked and tender, with each grain separate yet sticky.

Arroz cookery can be as simple or as complex as a cook wants to make it. Cooked in an earthenware casserole, arroz al estilo de Andalucia, rice in the style of Andalusia, is made with small birds, chorizo, chicken, ham and bacon and is flavored with garlic, onions, bay leaf and paprika. On the simple side is arros amb ciurons from Catalonia, rice cooked with chickpeas and saffron.

These three styles of Mediterranean rice cookery are not all-inclusive, of course: Rice can also be used for stuffing vegetables such as grape leaves or cabbage or in soups and stews, as well as desserts and, in North Africa, as a grain for couscous.

Along with these three styles, rice is also used in many other ways--for stuffing vegetables, in soups, in desserts and, in North Africa, as a grain substitute for couscous.

Yet, despite rice’s popularity in the Mediterranean, and despite the birth of magnificent and famous preparations, it is has not been accepted as a staple food in that region--as wheat has--except in a few Middle Eastern regions.

Although rice is not the patriarch sitting at the head of the Mediterranean table, think of it as an honored and beloved guest sitting at his side.

Shrimp Risotto (Risotto de Gambaretti)

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

The secret to this dish is an excellent shrimp broth. For this reason, it’s best to use fresh shrimp with their heads on. The rice should take on a pinkish hue from the shrimp. You can enhance this look by stirring in a tablespoon of tomato sauce. Venetian cooks often add Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese to the risotto as well, but I don’t care for this addition.

6 cups cold water

3 cloves garlic, 2 crushed and 1 minced

1 bay leaf

2 pounds small or medium-size shrimp with heads (1 pound shrimp without heads)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

1 green onion, finely chopped

2 cups Arborio rice

3/4 cup white wine

2 teaspoons salt

Freshly ground black pepper

* Bring water to boil in large saucepan with crushed garlic and bay leaf. Add shrimp and cook until pink, 2 minutes. Remove shrimp with slotted ladle or skimmer. Peel shrimp once they’re cool, putting shells (and heads, if any) back into water. Chop shrimp meat and refrigerate until needed. Simmer broth with shrimp shells over low heat 1 hour. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer and chill until ready to use.

* When almost ready to serve, return broth to boil. In large, heavy casserole or saucepan, heat olive oil and 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat until butter starts to sizzle. Cook green onion and minced garlic 1 minute, stirring so garlic doesn’t burn.

* Add rice to oil mixture and stir, coating all grains. Cook over medium heat 2 minutes. Pour in wine, stirring constantly. Add reserved chopped shrimp and 1 cup shrimp broth. Once liquid evaporates, pour in another cup broth and stir frequently. Continue adding broth in smaller and smaller amounts as it evaporates and is absorbed, and cook until rice is between al dente and tender, 20 minutes. (You will use about 5 cups of broth.) When risotto is done, stir in remaining 1 tablespoon butter and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 440 calories; 956 mg sodium; 113 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 51 grams carbohydrates; 18 grams protein; 0.03 gram fiber.

Saffron Rice and Seafood (Arros a Banda)

Active Work Time: 1 hour 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 4 hours

Traditionally, Arros a Banda was made on the small coast runners that engaged in cabotage along the Valencian coast known as the Levante. The boatmen would eat the fish with hollowed-out pieces of bread. Fishermen also made this dish. A banda means “apart” in Valencian, meaning that the rice is served apart from the fish, which is served as a second course. It is traditionally served with all-i-oli, a pungent garlic mayonnaise.

BASIC BROTH

12 littleneck clams, scrubbed, purged in cold water to cover with 2 teaspoons baking soda for 1 hour, and drained

5 cups plus 2 tablespoons water

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 large cloves garlic, chopped

3 tomatoes (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded and finely chopped

1 cup white wine

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Bouquet garni, tied in cheesecloth, consisting of 1 bay leaf, 6 sprigs thyme, 6 sprigs parsley and 1 teaspoon fennel seeds or 1 fennel stalk with leaves

1 1/2 pounds soup fish (whole firm-fleshed fish and fish heads) for broth, such as sardines, mackerel and bluefish

1 pound shrimp, peeled, heads and shells reserved (1/2 pound headless shrimp)

* Put drained clams in small pot with 2 tablespoons water, cover and turn heat to medium-high. Once clams have opened, about 6 minutes, remove. Remove clams from shells and set aside in refrigerator. Strain clam broth through fine-mesh strainer and set aside. Discard shells and any clams that remain tightly closed.

* In stockpot or large casserole, warm oil over medium heat, then cook onion, garlic and tomatoes until mixture looks saucy, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring often so garlic doesn’t burn. Add 5 cups water, wine and reserved clam broth and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add bouquet garni, cut-up whole fish and fish heads and shrimp heads and shells (reserve shrimp; keep shrimp and all other fish refrigerated until 15 minutes before needed). Bring to boil, reduce heat to low and simmer about 2 hours. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer. Discard solids. Makes about 6 cups.

GARLIC BROTH

2 cloves garlic

Pinch saffron threads, crumbled

1 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

* Using mortar and pestle, pound together garlic, saffron, paprika, cayenne and salt into fairly smooth paste. Transfer to 2-cup measuring glass, blend with 1 cup Basic Broth and reserve.

FISH

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, very finely chopped

2 large cloves garlic, chopped

1 tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped

2 tablespoons very finely chopped parsley leaves

2 1/4 pounds mixed fish steaks or filets, such as monkfish, halibut, striped bass, shark or red snapper

* In large casserole or skillet, warm oil over medium-high heat, then cook onion, garlic, tomato and parsley until onion is soft, about 6 minutes. Add fish and coat all sides in mixture, 2 to 3 minutes. Add reserved 5 cups Basic Broth and bring to boil over high heat, cooking 2 to 3 minutes. Shake pan occasionally. Add reserved shrimp and boil 2 more minutes, shaking pan. Remove fish and shrimp with slotted spoon, set aside with reserved clams and cover with foil to keep warm. Strain liquid through fine-mesh strainer, reserving and setting aside 3 cups and storing rest, covered, in refrigerator, for another use.

RICE

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, gently crushed

2 small dried red chiles

2 cups medium-grain rice

* In paella pan or large skillet, warm oil over medium heat and cook garlic and chiles until garlic begins to turn light brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove and discard garlic and chiles. Add rice and cook, stirring well so grains are coated with oil, 3 to 4 minutes. Add reserved 3 cups Basic Broth from cooking fish and 1 cup Garlic Broth. Bring to boil over high heat then reduce heat to low and cook 30 minutes, uncovered. Do not stir. Remove from heat, cover and let rice rest until tender, about 15 minutes. Serve rice first and then fish, or place fish on top of rice and serve.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 865 calories; 565 mg sodium; 151 mg cholesterol; 43 grams fat; 61 grams carbohydrates; 51 grams protein; 1.77 grams fiber.

Rice With Chicken (Ruzz bi’l-Dujaj)

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 3 hours

Ruzz bi’l-dujaj is a family-style chicken pilaf that my former wife, Najwa al-qattan, remembers fondly from her childhood. The large chunks of poached chicken from the flavorful broth mixed with nuts, lamb and rice make for a very satisfying dish. It is quite common in contemporary middle-class Arab homes to see vegetable shortening, such as Crisco, replacing the traditional samna as the cooking fat.

1 (4-pound) chicken, rinsed and patted dry

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 onion

1 clove

1 cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup blanched whole almonds

1/2 cup pine nuts

3 tablespoons clarified butter

1/4 pound ground lamb

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

2 cups long-grain rice, rinsed well or soaked in water to cover for 30 minutes and drained

Plain yogurt, for garnish

Arab flat bread (Khubz arabi) or pita bread

* Season chicken with salt and pepper inside and out. Place untrussed chicken in large pot in water to cover with onion studded with clove and with cinnamon stick. Season again with salt and pepper. Bring to just under a boil over medium heat, reducing heat if necessary so water does not boil. Simmer until meat is almost falling off bone, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. (Boiling will toughen chicken.)

* Drain chicken, reserving 3 cups broth and saving rest for another use. (If desired, you can reduce amount of fat by refrigerating broth 1 hour until fat congeals on top and then skimming it off.) Remove and discard skin from chicken, then remove meat from bones in large pieces. Set aside and keep warm.

* In small skillet, warm oil over medium heat, then cook almonds until golden, stirring, about 10 minutes. Be careful they do not burn. Add pine nuts and cook until golden, 1 to 2 minutes more. Set nuts aside.

* In large, heavy saucepan or casserole with tight-fitting lid, melt clarified butter over medium-high heat and cook ground lamb seasoned with cinnamon, allspice and salt to taste and 1/2 teaspoon pepper until no longer pink, about 4 minutes, breaking it up with a fork. Add rice and continue cooking 2 minutes, stirring. Add 2 1/4 cups broth, bring to boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to very low. Cover and cook until grains are tender, fluffy and separate, 15 to 20 minutes. If rice is still al dente, add some boiling chicken broth and continue cooking. Do not stir rice and do not uncover except to check once.

* Arrange rice on platter, cover with nuts and lay chicken pieces on top or along sides. Serve with yogurt and Arab bread.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings, chicken and rice only: 837 calories; 230 mg sodium; 142 mg cholesterol; 50 grams fat; 56 grams carbohydrates; 41 grams protein; 0.73 gram fiber.

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Wright is the author of “A Mediterranean Feast,” which will be published by William Morrow in November.

Silverware, plate and napkin in Shrimp Risotto photo above and in Saffron Rice and Seafood photo on cover from William-Sonoma stores.