Guilty Pleasures

Carnitas tacos are not the most sinful or the most exotic offering at El Metate Market in Santa Ana. In addition to its famous tamales and other authentic, south-of-the-border fare, El Metate dishes out more unusual delicacies such as cabeza (beef head), lengua (beef tongue) and chivo (goat).

Yet it’s the carnitas--fried pork--that draws me back time and again. That’s right, pork. The other white meat.

For just 99 cents, you get juicy shreds of pork covered in a hot tomatillo salsa, sprinkled with onion and cilantro and wrapped in corn tortillas made on the premises. The tacos are sweet and spicy, and I always order two--along with a side of frijoles. Not exactly the dieter’s plate.

Although you can get your tacos to go, I like to eat them hot off their foam trays in the market’s casual dining area, where I can watch the shoppers come and go.

El Metate is a bustling market. Where else can you find shiny metal trash cans filled with dried

chiles and beans for sale by the pound? The carniceria (meat counter) is stocked with everything from thinly sliced carne asada to pig feet.

In the middle of the store, there are stacks of plastic crates filled with bags of masa to make tamales and, of course, the famous flour and corn tortillas, piled high like pancakes and still steaming in their plastic bags.

On your way out the door, stop by the market’s panaderia (bakery) and top off your meal with one of the colorful sugar cookies that must weigh nearly a pound apiece. Then, if you’re feeling really decadent, order another plate of carnitas tacos--to go.

* Two carnitas tacos: 560 calories / 32 grams of fat. 99 cents at El Metate Market, 838 E. 1st St., Santa Ana. (714) 542-3913.

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