Summertime’s for GRILLIN’

Like white shoes and bathing suit diets, the first hint of warm weather inevitably is accompanied by a bumper harvest of barbecue cookbooks. But when you get right down to it, grilling is cooking at its most elemental: man, meat and fire. Anything else is elaboration.

After more than 60 years of barbecue books, can there really be anything new to say?

Depends on what you mean by “new.” Certainly each grill guy who writes a book (and they are almost universally guys), tries to find his own twist on the subject--his own approach and, of course, his own set of recipes. But basically, almost all barbecue cookbooks proceed down the same path, at about the same pace. The form is as ritualized as any detective novel.

First there’s the equipment. Ahhh yes, the equipment; would grilling truly be as attractive without it? In the old days, this revolved around the do-it-yourself building of backyard barbecue pits. Today, it’s arguments about “gas vs. charcoal” and discussions of thousand-dollar grills and talking barbecue forks.

What is believed to be the first barbecue cookbook was published by Sunset magazine in 1938. Bound in board (literally, the cover is a very he-man plank), it is half project book, half cookbook. Or, as they put it then, “barbe-construction” and “barbe-cookery.” The latter was written by the late Virginia Rich, more famous recently for her series of culinary murder mysteries featuring a sleuthing chef.

The coolest part of this book is the construction plans. This was a time when “do-it-yourself” consisted of far more than merely changing light bulbs. Real men, it seems, were adept at everything from digging pits to pouring cement and laying brick. (Or maybe they weren’t but wanted to think they were. Wasn’t there an “I Love Lucy” episode about Ricky and Fred building a barbecue?)

Make no mistake about it, some of these projects amount to major remodeling, the backyard barbecue equivalents of the Taj Mahal. “Plan 13” is for a “barbecue, oven, fireplace, sink, cupboards and work surfaces” and is more than 16 feet wide (it calls for 2,100 bricks, the plan advises helpfully). You can’t help but wonder how many of these were converted to planters during the 1970s.

Today’s barbecue cookbooks aim a bit lower. Even something as detailed as Cook’s Illustrated magazine--in its new book--limits itself to electric and chimney starters, hardwood charcoal and tongs. Instead of do-it-yourself know-how, today’s books seem to focus more on “spend-it-yourself.” Most have at least something about those gleaming, stainless steel $3,000 mega-grills.

Sometimes in grill books the food even seems secondary. Usually, there’s a selection of “foolproof” basic recipes followed by an increasingly more complicated series of rubs, marinades and sauces, culminating in dishes where--whatever the generation--the fact that they’re cooked on the barbecue seems to be almost secondary.

From today’s vantage point, the food in the 1938 Sunset book is pretty basic stuff. There’s an interesting-sounding barbecue sauce, but it’s probably most notable for its mangling of names. Veal “sati” is easy enough to figure out, but it takes some puzzling to decipher “passoli” (hint: it’s Mexican, not Italian, and it’s made with hominy).

The first major revision of this book came in 1950. Quite a lot had changed in the world during the intervening 12 years, and that is amply reflected in the recipe selection. This is an almost startlingly sophisticated book--a sure antidote for anyone who insists that the 1950s were a dead time in American cuisine. An early version of Korean bulgogi , sophisticated French herbal butters, broiled wild mallard duck and a whole tuna pit-cooked on banana leaves are just a few of the recipes.

Of course, with grilling, the simple things are almost always the best. That’s true with this book as well. If you can find a copy, it’s worth it just to gaze mournfully at the pictures of the different cuts of meat and remember when “well-marbled” referred to something other than a fancy new countertop.

The meat is the only thing that’s leaner about this year’s crop of grilling books. We’ve sorted through the most recent--including from the last several years--and highlighted these we think are especially worth mention.

“How to Grill” by Steven Raichlen ( Workman, $19.95; 2001)

As he taught cooking classes in the heart of barbecue country, Raichlen discovered a strange phenomenon: Students were peppering him with questions about grilling, and once they opened up, even some of the hard-core guys were asking basic questions. So was born Raichlen’s picture-filled primer on grilling, which covers a variety of techniques--from setting up charcoal grills for smoking to preparing lobster for grilling.

Raichlen, who also wrote the recipe-filled “Barbecue! Bible” (Workman, $19.95) and a follow-up book on sauces and rubs, takes a modern-guy sort of tone here. To help you decide gas vs. charcoal, he starts by asking “Are you process-or result-oriented?” Yet among the 150 straightforward recipes is one for barbecued whole pig, undoubtedly appealing to run-of-the-mill grillers, but also to the sorts of weekend barbecue warriors who’ll drive miles in search of custom butchers.

The nifty photos are the best part about “How to Grill.” Packaged with big type and colorful boxes of tips, they make the book seem quite handy. That the recipes, such as Brazilian Coconut Shrimp Kebabs, sound good is almost secondary. The only slightly glaring part of all this is that color photos look a bit unappetizing on the book’s white pages. But no doubt the pages soon will be splattered, as any good cookbook’s should be.

“Weber’s Big Book of Grilling” by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae (Chronicle Books, $22.95; 2001)

After taking barbecuing to new heights a few years ago with “Weber’s Art of the Grill” (see below), the grill-maker has gone more down-home. It’s latest recipe epic, a hefty, softbound book, has a recipe for every day of the year. The “Big Book” is more fun, from its slightly silly tone (“In the beginning, there was fire, and it was good”) to old black-and-white photos of guys standing around grills in sport shirts.

But the book’s recipes are also really good. They’re not so complicated that you spend more time prepping than grilling, nor so simple that you can’t serve something such as Simple Salmon Marinade to guests (1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 1/4 cup soy sauce, 1/4 cup Dijon mustard, 3 tablespoons prepared horseradish, 2 tablespoons light brown sugar, 1 teaspoon rice vinegar. Marinate the salmon in all but 1/3 cup of marinade about 30 minutes; brush the rest on while grilling).

The Tia Maria Skirt Steak won praise from our steak fans, while Tequila Shrimp was another winner. In fact, flipping through the pages, few recipes-if any--sound unappealing, and that’s pretty unusual in a cookbook today.

‘Barbecues 101” by Rick Rodgers (Broadway, $15; 2001)

In previous books, Rodgers has talked turkey (“Thanksgiving 101”) and the holidays (“Christmas 101”), and now he takes on the freshmen barbecue class. Although his slim, picture-less book is nowhere near the size of Raichlen’s “How to Grill,” it still has good information. You just have to rely on words rather than pictures and graphics to get you through.

The usual topics are covered: gas vs. charcoal, smoking, grilling safety. Then Rodgers takes us to his recipes, starting with some sauces you can slap on, such as Napa Red Wine Marinade and Bangkok Lemongrass Marinade, and eventually getting to the big stuff, Grilled Steak 101. (There’s also Grilled Burgers 101, Grilled Pork Chops 101, BBQ Chicken 101--you get the idea--as well as more advanced numbers.)

Though probably a book more for the novice, even old grill hands might find a recipe or two, such as the Portobello Mushroom Quesadillas. They were good, though--come to think of it--an old grill-hand might not do mushrooms.

“The Best Recipe Grilling & Barbecue” by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated magazine (Boston Common Press, $29.95; 2001)

Combine Consumer Reports with a cookbook and you’ll get this big book from the folks at Cook’s Illustrated, a magazine known for its painstaking attention to every possible food preparation detail. “We lit more than 5,000 fires to find the absolute best way to grill,” the cover says of its 400 “exhaustively” tested recipes, from grilled bruschetta and pizza to charcoal-grilled squid. But before the recipes come somewhat exhaustive descriptions, such as 3 1/2 pages on grilling burgers and five pages talking chicken.

Of course some cookbooks might just lay it out there--burgers are best made with 20%-fat ground beef. Not so Cook’s, which editor and publisher Chris Kimball says in the book’s introduction is almost “plodding” when it comes to recipe development. Here we’re given how this decision was arrived at (which includes the final thought that you should grind your own meat), detailed in 22 paragraphs.

The idea, Kimball writes, is that once you’ve mastered the book’s techniques, when you pop open that beer and stand around the grill, you’ll “appear the very model of the easygoing barbecue chef.”

“Weber’s Art of the Grill” by Jamie Purviance (Chronicle Books, $35; 1999)

This big, bold book from a couple of years ago still looks good on the coffee table, and its full-page color photos will get you in the spirit to grill for guests, if nothing else. Bliss Potatoes With Sour Cream and Caviar, or Crispy Asian Duck Breasts and Soft Polenta--two of the recipes--might be a bit much for the boys on a Saturday night, but not for the grilling sophisticate.

This is more grilling as art form, the book says, which means controlling the fire, getting down some techniques and working with a good recipe. And, of course, buying an expensive book. Still, there’s good information here, and if you’ve got one of those big fancy grills, this might go well with it.

“Born to Grill: An American Celebration” by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison (Harvard Common Press, $15.95; 1998)

You can tell from this book or any of the Jamisons’ others (“Smoke and Spice” won a James Beard award) that this couple likes to cook outdoors. In every recipe, they like to “fire up the grill.” Their recipes are somewhat creative and have the sound of those from folks who like to eat (Banana-Glazed Butterflied Pork Chops, Garlic and Guac Burger, Bourbon Turkey Breast Filets, Cinnamon Chicken With Crunchy Cashew Relish).

There also are bits on grilling principles, wood chips and chunks, and gas and charcoal grills. While this may not be the best first grill book (no chicken breast 101 here), it’s a nice one to add to any collection.

Sunny Sunday Chicken Breasts

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 50 minutes plus 3 hours marinating

From “Born to Grill” by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison, who say, given the voluptuousness of the sauce, this is good served with a spinach and mushroom salad and roasted potatoes or rice. They also point out that bone-in chicken breasts can take longer to cook and be a little tricky, but are worth the flavor.

2 (6 1/2-ounce) jars marinated artichoke hearts, undrained

Juice of 1 1/2 lemons, divided

4 cloves garlic, minced, divided

6 bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts (about 2 1/2 pounds)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons white wine

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt

Chopped fresh basil or parsley and lemon zest, for garnish

At least 3 hours and up to the night before you plan to grill, drain the oil from the artichokes into a small bowl. To prepare the marinade, stir the juice of 1 lemon and 3 of the garlic cloves into the oil. Place the chicken in a resealable plastic bag and pour the marinade over it, rubbing some of the liquid under the skin without tearing the skin. Refrigerate the chicken.

Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and drain it, discarding the marinade. Let the chicken sit uncovered at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes. Blot any excess liquid from the surface.

Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium.

While the grill heats, puree the artichoke hearts in a blender with the olive oil. Warm the butter in a small nonreactive saucepan over medium heat and add the remaining garlic. Cook the garlic briefly until just soft and then stir in the wine, oregano and pureed artichoke-and-oil mixture. Cook the sauce for several minutes, bringing it to a good simmer. Stir in the remaining lemon juice, taste, and add salt to taste. If the sauce seems too thick, add a splash of wine and simmer an additional minute. Remove the sauce from the heat, but keep it warm. (The sauce can be made a day ahead, kept refrigerated, then reheated.)

Transfer the chicken to the grill skin-side down. Grill the chicken uncovered over medium heat for 30 to 35 minutes, turning 4 times. Watch for flare-ups, shifting the breasts away from the flame if necessary. If grilling covered, cook for 24 to 28 minutes, turning twice, though the time may vary depending on the size of the chicken breasts. End the grilling in either case with the chicken skin-side down to give it a final crisping. The chicken breasts are done when opaque down to the bone and still juicy.

Stir the sauce to reblend and spoon it onto a platter. Top the sauce with the chicken breasts, and scatter the basil or parsley and the lemon zest over the chicken.

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6 servings. Each serving: 538 calories; 212 mg sodium; 145 mg cholesterol; 37 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 49 grams protein; 0.13 gram fiber.

Portabello Mushroom Quesadillas

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 45 minutes plus 1 hour standing * Vegetarian

From “Barbecues 101” by Rick Rodgers (Broadway, $15). Fontina has a mild mushroom flavor that goes so well with the grilled portabellos that, although you can substitute Jack or mozzarella, it’s worth searching out. Garlic oil is great for grilling vegetables, meats and poultry when you want just a bit more flavor. Or use it in a vinaigrette. Make it in small batches because it tends to spoil quickly, even when refrigerated.

GARLIC OIL

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 large cloves garlic, crushed under a knife

Heat the oil and garlic in a saucepan over very low heat just until tiny bubbles appear around the garlic, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the oil stand 1 hour. Use a slotted spoon to discard the garlic.

QUESADILLAS

4 portabello mushrooms, stems trimmed and discarded

Garlic Oil

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

8 (8-inch) flour tortillas

1 cup shredded Fontina cheese

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary or a combination of rosemary, sage and thyme

Build a charcoal fire in an outdoor grill and let it burn until the coals are covered with white ash. In a gas grill, preheat on high.

Lightly oil the cooking rack. Brush the mushroom caps liberally with garlic oil and lightly season them with salt and pepper. Place the mushrooms on the grill and cover. Grill, turning once, until the mushrooms are tender, about 6 minutes. Transfer them to a cutting board and slice into 1/2-inch-wide strips.

Place 4 tortillas on a work surface and sprinkle each with 1/4 cup of the cheese. Top with equal amounts of the mushroom strips, sprinkle with the herbs, then carefully place each on the grill. Top each with one of the remaining tortillas. Grill the quesadillas until the underside is lightly browned, about 45 seconds, then turn and grill to brown the other side. Cut each quesadilla into 6 wedges and serve immediately.

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8 servings. Each of serving: 229 calories; 306 mg sodium; 19 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 1.55 grams fiber.

Tia Maria Skirt Steak

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes plus 2 hours marinating

From “Weber’s Big Book of Grilling” by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae (Chronicle Books, $22.95). Tia Maria, a coffee-flavored liqueur, may be hard to find. You can use any coffee-flavored liqueur, such as Kahlua. We squeezed a lime over the steaks when they were done and the results were excellent.

RUB

2 teaspoons black peppercorns

2 teaspoons coffee beans

2 teaspoons fennel seeds

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

Using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, crush the peppercorns with the coffee beans and fennel seeds. Place in a small bowl and mix with the chili powder, cinnamon and salt.

STEAK

1/2 cup Tia Maria or coffee liqueur

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 (3/4-pound) skirt steaks, each about 1/2-inch thick

Extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lime, optional

Whisk together the Tia Maria or coffee liqueur and the Worcestershire sauce in a small bowl.

Trim the steaks of any excess fat and cut each steak in half. Place the steaks in a large, resealable plastic bag and pour in the marinade. Press the air out of the bag and seal tightly. Turn the bag to distribute the marinade, place on a plate and refrigerate 2 to 4 hours, turning occasionally.

Remove the steaks from the bag and discard the marinade. Pat the steaks dry with paper towels. Coat both sides of the steaks with the rub. Allow them to stand at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes before grilling.

Heat the grill on high heat.

Brush or spray both sides of the steaks with olive oil. Season with additional salt to taste. Grill them over direct heat 3 to 5 minutes, turning once halfway through grilling time. Remove them from the grill, squeeze lime juice over them, if using, and allow to rest 2 to 3 minutes. Serve warm, whole or thinly sliced.

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4 servings. Each serving: 489 calories; 281 mg sodium; 112 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 42 grams protein; 0.67 gram fiber.

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All these books are available at bookstores, but look for the old “Sunset Barbecue” books at antiquarian bookstores such as Janet Jarvits Bookseller, 1388 E. Washington Blvd., Pasadena. (626) 296-1638. Or search the Internet at sites such as https://www.abe.com.