Blueberries

* Tiny blue globes of subtle sweetness--blueberries are here.

Urth Cafe: The rich, creamy, regular cheesecake is sour cream and cream cheese on a buttery graham cracker crust; there’s also a low-fat version made with nonfat yogurt and ricotta. Both are thickly coated with blueberries. (Blueberry cheesecake, slice, $5; cake $45. Low-fat blueberry cheesecake, slice, $3.50; cake, $40.) Urth Cafe, 8565 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (310) 659-0628.

La Conversation: At this charming French pastry shop-cafe, there are three blueberry desserts to choose from. The blueberry mousse cake (available whole in three sizes or by the slice) alternates layers of vanilla cake and violet mousse studded with blueberries. The almond tart is a sugar crust baked with almond cream, then topped with blueberries. Another tart is spread with a thin layer of bittersweet chocolate and topped with vanilla custard and blueberries. (Mousse cake, slice, $3, whole cake, $21, $28 or $40; tart, slice, $3.) La Conversation, 638 N. Doheny Drive, West Hollywood, (310) 858-0950.

L.A. Desserts: One of the most popular items at the Ivy’s bakery is the blueberry buckle. It’s like a big, crumbly cake crammed with giant blueberries. One buckle serves 12; order it 24 hours in advance. (Blueberry buckle, $27.) L.A. Desserts, the Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., (310) 273-5537.

La Brea Bakery: If you’re having a blueberry attack, pick up a couple of the individual brown butter tarts with blueberries here. The nutty flavor of crust is subtly complemented by the blueberries. The bakery also makes blueberry scones, perfect for breakfast. (Brown butter tart, $3; blueberry scone, $2.) La Brea Bakery, 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., (323) 939-6813.

Aubergine: Pastry chef Shelly Register tops the old-fashioned brown butter tart with a fresh blueberry fool--layers of blueberries alternating with lemon cream. On the side is a scoop of lemon curd ice cream. This dessert is only available on one of the prix-fixe menus. (Prix-fixe dinners: nine-course, $110; five-course, $85; vegetarian, $65.) Aubergine, 508 29th St., Newport Beach, (949) 723-4150.

Melisse: Pastry chef T’ai Chopping makes a gratin of blueberries in lemon zest sabayon and serves it with limoncello parfait: a frozen mousse flavored with Neapolitan lemon liqueur surrounding a liquid lemon center. (Blueberry gratin with limoncello parfait, $10.) Melisse, 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 395-0881.