Throw open the doors

KEEP your ribbons and your bows, your stockings hung by the chimney with care. When it comes to the holidays, what I really want is an open house.

All year long we have dinner parties, pretty quiet affairs usually, maybe six or eight friends sitting around enjoying food, wine and polite conversation. But at the holidays we really cut loose, filling the house so full with people we care about that it seems close to bursting.

And though the conversation may be a little loud to be considered strictly polite, the food had still better be great.

The trick is getting all those people served. I’ve got a one-word answer: buffet. I know, the word makes you think of all-you-can-eat and Vegas. But buffet is nothing but a style of service, and, properly carried out, it can be about as elegant as any meal you’ve ever served.

All it takes is a little strategizing to get things right. But the payoffs are worth that small extra effort. Primary among them is that you, the cook, are freed from most kitchen duties once the guests arrive. Arrange the food on platters and in bowls, set them in the appropriate spots and except for periodic refreshing and neatening, you’re pretty much done. You can enjoy the party too.

The key to a good buffet is an irresistible feeling of abbondanza. Think of the first time you walked into an Italian restaurant and saw a real antipasto table -- the colors, the textures, the promise of all those flavors. It’s dazzling; your spirit lifts just looking at it. That’s the kind of effect you want to have.

Start with the centerpiece. Though one main course is enough for most dinner parties, with buffets, you’re better off planning in multiples.

A roast tenderloin of beef is about as impressive a centerpiece as you could want, particularly if you serve it with something such as a tart, slightly spicy horseradish creme fraiche (resist any thoughts of serving it with a jus or other sauces -- when they cool, they become unpleasant). Though roast tenderloin is about as close to a guaranteed showstopper as you can get, there are few things simpler to prepare -- season, sear and roast. There’s nothing more to it.

But not everyone eats beef (and at $15 a pound and more, it gets a little expensive for a crowd). So supplement it with a brined and roasted turkey breast. Or pick up a side of salmon and oven-poach it (bake it in a 300-degree oven over a baking pan of boiling water for 25 to 30 minutes -- you won’t believe how moist and buttery it turns out). The same horseradish sauce will work for either.

A deep-dish vegetable tart will do double duty, working as an appetizer and a main course for vegetarians. Once you’ve prepared the dough and stir-fried the greens (things that can be done a day ahead), it comes together easily: Combine the vegetables, ricotta and eggs and bake them in a crisp pastry crust.

Then there’s the whole salad paradox. On the one hand, especially in the midst of the holiday food-a-thon, there are few things more welcome than a dish that is crisp and light. But most lettuces will go limp almost as soon as they are dressed; forget about them lasting an hour or more.

Sturdy greens such as endive, radicchio and watercress will keep their crunch longer. These salads can be simple -- just greens and a dressing -- or they can be complex. Combine endive and watercress and top with buttery avocado and the sweet meat of a Dungeness crab and you’ve got another main dish.

Cabbage is another salad solution. Though you may not want to serve your Fourth of July picnic coleslaw at Hanukkah-time, you’d be surprised how elegant Nappa cabbage can be if dressed simply with rice vinegar and a little sesame oil and then tossed with chopped cilantro and toasted sesame seeds just before serving.

Or treat cooked vegetables as salads. In fact, there’s nothing more joyfully Californian than turning your holiday buffet table into a farmers market stand. Blanch broccoli or cauliflower, and toss it with a piquant anchovy vinaigrette. Dress green beans with olive oil, lemon and garlic. Combine roasted beets with their blanched greens, toasted walnuts and some crumbled fresh goat cheese. Gently stew leeks until they’re tender, then let them cool in a mustardy vinaigrette.

Glazed vegetables are good too. Cut vegetables into small pieces and cook them, covered, over medium heat with a little water and a little fat until they’re just becoming tender. Remove the cover and increase the heat to high. The water will evaporate, leaving the vegetables covered in a savory glaze.

There are all kinds of twists to this: Glaze Brussels sprouts in bacon fat and add crunchy hazelnuts for texture. Glaze pearl onions with butter and minced tarragon. One of my favorite combinations is glazing carrots with orange juice and just a hint of pimenton de la vera, Spanish smoked paprika. Toss in some toasted slivered almonds and minced parsley just to warm through.

All of this sounds like a lot of work, and if you tried to do it all yourself, it would be. The secret is to pick your spots and fill in the gaps with good-quality prepared food.

Remember, this open house is your holiday gift too.

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Tart of mixed greens

Total time: 2 hours, 15 minutes, plus dough-chilling time, plus 30 minutes cooling time

Servings: 16

Note: The tart shell is from Thomas Keller’s cookbook “Bouchon.” You can vary the proportions and the types of greens used as long as you wind up with roughly 24 cups with a variety of flavors and textures.

Tart shell

2 cups flour, divided, plus a little more for rolling

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 -inch pieces

1/4 cup ice water

Canola oil

1. Place 1 cup of the flour and the salt in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Turn to low speed and add a small handful of the butter at a time. When all the butter has been added, increase speed to medium and mix until the butter is completely blended with the flour. Reduce the speed, add the remaining flour, and mix just to combine. Slowly add the water and mix until incorporated. The dough will come around the paddle and pull cleanly away from the sides of the bowl. It should feel smooth, not sticky.

2. Remove the dough from the mixer and check to be certain that there are no pieces of butter remaining; if necessary, return the dough to the mixer and mix briefly again. Pat the dough into a 7- to 8-inch disk and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to a day.

3. Lightly brush the inside of an 8-by-2-inch-high springform pan with canola oil and place it on a jellyroll pan. Place the dough on a floured surface and rub all sides with flour. Flatten it into a larger circle using a rolling pin or the heel of your hand. Roll out the dough into a circle about one-fourth inch thick and about 14 inches in diameter. (If the dough becomes very soft, refrigerate for a few minutes.)

4. To lift the dough into the springform pan, place the rolling pin across the bottom edge and roll it up on the pin. Carefully lower it into the pan, pressing it gently against the sides and into the bottom corners. Trim any that extends more than an inch over the sides and reserve the scraps. Fold the excess dough over against the outside of the ring. (Preparing the tart shell this way will prevent it from shrinking down the sides as it bakes. The excess dough will be removed after the tart is baked.) Carefully check for any cracks or holes in the dough, and patch with the reserved pieces as necessary. Place in the refrigerator or freezer for at least 20 minutes to resolidify the butter. Reserve the remaining dough scraps.

5. Set a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 375 degrees. Line the tart shell with an oiled 16-inch round of parchment paper or aluminum foil. Fill the shell with pie weights or dried beans, gently guiding the weights into the corners of the shell and filling the shell completely. Bake the shell until the edges of the dough are lightly browned but the bottom is still light in color, 35 to 45 minutes.

6. Carefully remove the parchment and weights. Check for any cracks or holes and patch with thin pieces of the reserved dough, if necessary. Return the shell to the oven until the bottom is a rich golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and prepare to fill immediately. Once again, check the dough for any cracks or holes, and patch if necessary before filling with the greens mixture. Leave the oven on.

Filling and assembly

1/4 cup olive oil

8 cups coarsely chopped mustard greens, thick stems removed

8 cups coarsely chopped kale, thick stems removed

4 cups coarsely chopped white-ribbed chard leaves, thick stems removed

4 cups coarsely chopped dandelion greens, stemmed

1 cup chopped green onions, green parts only (1 bunch)

3 cloves garlic, minced

Salt

1 1/2 cups whole-milk ricotta

1 (5-ounce) log fresh goat cheese

3/4 cup half-and-half

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Generous grating ( 1/8 teaspoon) fresh nutmeg

6 eggs

3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan

1. While the tart shell is baking, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in the largest saute pan you own. When the oil is hot, begin adding the greens, a couple of handfuls at a time and stir-frying them until they begin to wilt, about 3 minutes. When one batch of green has wilted, add more and continue cooking until all of the greens have been cooked, about 12 to 15 minutes in all. Reduce heat to low, add the green onions and minced garlic and season with 1 teaspoon salt. Cook until the garlic softens and becomes fragrant, about 5 minutes. You will have about 3 to 4 cups of cooked greens.

2. Transfer the greens to a food processor and pulse 2 to 3 times to mince. Add the ricotta, goat cheese, half-and-half, one-fourth teaspoon salt, black pepper and nutmeg and pulse until thoroughly mixed. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add the eggs and pulse to combine thoroughly.

3. Pour the filling into the baked tart shell. Sprinkle the Parmesan evenly over top. Bake at 375 degrees until the tart is puffed in the center and golden on top, about 1 hour. A knife inserted in the center should come out clean.

4. Set the tart aside to cool at least 30 minutes before serving at room temperature. Remove any overhanging dough, using a serrated knife. Gently free the springform pan and remove the outer ring. (This dish can be prepared 1 day ahead, cooled completely, covered tightly with aluminum foil and refrigerated. Reheat in a 350-degree oven before serving.)

Each serving: 344 calories; 13 grams protein; 20 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 24 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 133 mg. cholesterol; 264 mg. sodium.

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Dungeness crab salad with avocado and bitter greens

Total time: 45 minutes

Servings: 8 to 10

3 heads Belgian endive

2 bunches watercress

1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon

mustard

2 tablespoons

Champagne vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup oil

2 tablespoons chives, plus 1 tablespoon chopped for garnish

2 avocados

1 pound picked-over Dungeness crab meat (about two 2 1/2 -pound crabs, cooked and cleaned)

1. Trim the stem ends of the endive. Cut each head lengthwise into quarters, and cut away the solid core. Slice the endive into thin, lengthwise ribbons. Trim any tough stems and faded leaves from the watercress, and tear into bite-sized pieces. (This dish can be prepared to this point a day ahead and refrigerated in a tightly covered container.)

2. When almost ready to serve, prepare the vinaigrette by blending the mustard, vinegar, salt, oil and chives. You can do this in a small blender jar or by shaking vigorously in a small, tightly sealed jar.

3. Combine the endive and watercress in a large mixing bowl, and dress with about two-thirds of the vinaigrette. Toss to coat lightly, and thoroughly combine the endive and watercress. Arrange in a layer on a large platter.

4. Pit and peel the avocadoes and cut into large dice. Place the avocado in the mixing bowl and dress with half the remaining vinaigrette. Stir gently to coat lightly without breaking up the avocado, and spoon in a single layer over the watercress and endive.

5. Place the crab in the mixing bowl, add the remaining vinaigrette and toss gently to coat lightly without breaking up the crab pieces. Arrange the crab in a layer on top of the avocado, sprinkle with the remaining chopped chives and serve immediately.

Each of 10 servings: 241 calories; 12 grams protein; 9 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams fiber; 18 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 45 mg. cholesterol; 308 mg. sodium.

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Carrots with smoky pimenton-orange glaze

Total time: 50 minutes

Servings: 8 to 10

Note: Pimenton de la vera is Spanish smoked paprika, available at La Espanola Meats in Harbor City, Surfas in Culver City and at

spanishtable.com.

6 bunches carrots

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup water

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste

1/4 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon pimenton de la vera

6 tablespoons toasted slivered almonds

1 tablespoon minced parsley

1. Peel and cut the carrots into 2 to 2 1/2 -inch lengths. Cut these into sticks of roughly equal size -- the thin tips can be cut in half, the slightly fatter middles in quarters and the large base in sixths. You should have about 9 cups of carrots. (The recipe can be made to this point a day ahead and refrigerated in a tightly covered container.)

2. Combine the carrots in a large skillet with the garlic, water, olive oil and salt. Toss to mix well. Cook, covered, over medium-high heat until the carrots just begin to become tender, about 5 minutes. Remove the lid and increase the heat to high. Cook stirring frequently, until the liquid has reduced to a glaze in the bottom of the pan, about 5 to 7 minutes more.

3. While the carrots are cooking, combine the orange juice, lemon juice and pimenton in a small bowl and stir until smooth. When the cooking liquid in the pan has reduced to a glaze, add the citrus-pimenton combination to the pan and toss to coat the carrots evenly. Cook until the carrots are glazed, 3 to 5 minutes.

4. Before serving, stir in the almonds and minced parsley. Season to taste with salt. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Each of 10 servings: 143 calories; 3 grams protein; 23 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams fiber; 5 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 501 mg. sodium.

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Roast tenderloin of beef with horseradish creme fraiche

Total time: 1 hour plus refrigerating time

Servings: 8 to 12

1 (3- to 4-pound) beef tenderloin

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Oil

1 (7 1/2 -ounce) container creme fraiche (about 1 cup)

3 to 5 teaspoons cream-style prepared horseradish

1/4 teaspoon dry mustard

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced chives

1. Salt the tenderloin liberally all over and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

2. About 30 minutes before cooking time, remove the meat from the refrigerator. Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Pat the tenderloin completely dry with paper towels. Season generously with black pepper.

3. When ready to cook, heat a large roasting pan over medium-high heat and add just enough oil to film the bottom of the pan, about 3 tablespoons. When the oil is almost smoking, add the tenderloin. Sear the tenderloin on one side, 3 to 4 minutes, and then repeat until the entire surface is well-browned.

4. Place the pan in the oven and roast, turning the meat occasionally, until the interior temperature is 130 degrees for rare, about 30 minutes, or 140 degrees for medium rare, about 35 minutes. Remove the tenderloin from the oven and transfer it to a carving board. Tent lightly with aluminum foil and let rest at least 20 minutes before carving into one-fourth-inch slices.

5. Make the sauce by whipping the creme fraiche with a whisk until it lightens, then whisking in the horseradish to taste, dry mustard, lemon juice and minced chives. Taste and adjust seasoning for lemon and salt. (Sauce can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead and refrigerated in a tightly covered container.)

Each of 12 servings: 276 calories;

28 grams protein; 1 gram carbohydrate; 0 fiber; 17 grams fat;

7 grams saturated fat; 91 mg. cholesterol; 80 mg. sodium.